The SOMM Journal

August / September 2015

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106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 Somm Da�e with a THE PAIRINGS Muser's selections for our date were Portuguese table wines. His list at Grace doesn't have a single Bordeaux or Burgundy. DISH 1: Bacalhau with green olive, mint WINE 1: Quinta do Ameal 2013 "Escolha," Vinho Regional Minho The light clean flavors of the ocean and the saltiness of this cod spread called "for an army of acidity—something to keep the palate dancing and just stay out of the way," Muser said. This light straw–colored varietal Loureiro, most often seen in a Vinho Verde blend, knew just how to complement the dish, with its clean, fresh vibrant acidity and spritzy citrus. A bit Riesling-like, it stayed out of the way and knew its place as a palate cleanser, not as a dominant force. 100% Loureiro. DISH 2: Stir-fried Melaka clams, asam sambal, cucumber, pea sprout WINE 2: Quinta do Poço do Lobo 1995 Arinto, Vinho Regional Beiras This dish, while seafood, is meaty, savory and dense, yet the clams still shined through. Muser reached for this 100% Arinto white, one of Portugal's oldest varieties, with good body, density and texture. "This wine holds its own and chills out the spice of the sambal." The spices also bring more flavors of fruit out in the wine. The rich roundness of the wine, some due to the age, combines with the flavors of brioche and toast, then finishes with oxidized aromatics, like a Sherry. DISH 4: Curried skate wing. WINE 4: Glida 2013 Bairrada DOC The tender striated fish is moist and rich with the deep earthy flavors of the curry spices. "This is an outstanding example of dispelling the red wine and fish mismatch myth," Muser says. This savory dish works well with this delicate, aromatic complex wine. The floral lightness of the wine—a blend of Merlot, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão yielding from the limestone and cool profile of the Bairrada region—melds into the dish elegantly, with neither taking over or taking charge. DISH 3: Macau chilli prawns stuffed with garlic, cilantro and fermented black beans WINE 3: Lagar de Darei 2012 Dão These giant prawns, head and shell on, were a pure breath of the sea. Fresh, succulent and rich, they sang even brighter with this field blend of indigenous whites grapes Encruzado, Malvasia Fina, Arinto, Gouveio, Bical and Cerceal Branco. The wine had just the body to stand up to the dish, even to the spice. In fact, the fruit was accentu- ated by the saltiness of the prawns. For a Chardonnay lover, this wine fits the bill. Aged in large wood casks, it has subtle oak notes. "I can walk someone outside of the box with this wine, since it takes you in the Chardonnay direction," says Muser.

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