The Tasting Panel magazine

ROAD TRIP OPUS ONE: For A NEW Generation T he 2011 harvest marked the 33rd vintage for one of the world's greatest wineries, Opus One. "We think if we get to 50, it's a pretty good start," says Roger Asleson, VP Public Relations. Following the vision that two legends, Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, paved for the winery—to become the benchmark for the exceptional wine that could be produced in the heart of Napa Valley—its current leaders are realizing the dream. CEO David Pearson was the first person singly responsible for Opus One (while Constellation maintains a 50-50 joint ownership with Rothschild, the winery has operational independence in administration and vineyard management as well as sales and marketing), and winemaker Michael Silacci was the first to assume full responsibility for viticulture and winemaking. "Opus One has grown up," Asleson adds; "we're experiencing a measure of independence we didn't have before." Part of that independence is being able to make decisions about not replanting after a harvest. The new vines are grown in a nursery for a year. It's like prep school for grapes. "We practice economic and philosophical patience from the time the grapes begin to grow, in absolute uniformity." Business-to-business: (background) Southern Wine & Spirits of CA top brass Executive VP/GM Jack Brennan with Jim Allen, Sr. VP/Fine Wine; (foreground) Opus One VP Public Relations Roger Asleson and Opus One VP Sales & Marketing Robert Roux. With 139 acres of Bordeaux varieties in produc- tion, Opus One's current (and sold-out) 17,000-case produc- tion release—the 2008—was the winery's smallest per-acre yield in 32 vintages. RUDD: Readying For A NEW Direction A hillside across from Screaming Eagle, Phelps's Bacchus Vineyard, Bond and Plumpjack, Rudd Oakville Estate is in magnificent company. Leslie Rudd came to Napa in the mid 1990s to create a generational winery, but it was a world apart from his other businesses; Rudd owns Dean and DeLuca gourmet markets, Oakville Grocery and San Francisco's No. 209 Gin among other ventures. Being the brilliant businessman that he is, Rudd recruited Kenny Koda as the winery's new Director. Koda worked for Rudd in other capacities, but the trained Sommelier (he was certified in 2005) is taking the necessary steps to revive, re-organize and develop everything the winery needs, including a restored identity. "Immediate returns are not as important to us as long term quality," Koda tells THE TASTING PANEL. "So if we can afford something that will help to make our wines better, then we'll do it. Ultimately, our wines have to be identifiably Rudd." Grown on steep grades in volcanic clay, the Rudd 2010 Mt. Veeder Sauvignon Blanc (SRP $58) is an OMG white that can pass for a Loire Valley beauty. Blended with Sauvignon Gris, Muscadet and Semillon, it is exquisitely fragrant and opens with tropical pineapple leading to lanolin, gooseberry and honeyed white peach. january/february 2012 / the tasting panel / 97

• Cover