The Tasting Panel magazine

Mavericks Welcome Here Nimbleness is one thing that's helped Saint-Émilion. Says Jean Pierre Dubreiul, a fourth-generation winemaker at Château de la Grenière in Lussac, "Saint-Émilion is a laboratory. We like progress and new technology. Tradition is important, but it's not the most important." That spirit, spurred by the garagistes, put Saint-Émilion on the map. The movement is largely credited to Murielle Andraud and Jean-Luc Thunevin, who today, still champion the appellation, and mentor other young winemakers like Marie-Bénédicte Lefévère at Château Sansonnet who want to do it their way. Their signature Valandraud wine is no longer the young pup it was in the early '90s, but the couple has refreshed the line with other labels, most notably Jean Luc's "Bad Boy." And Murielle, the head winemaker for all, recently countered with her own "Bad Girl," a crémant made from Entre-Deux-Mers grapes. Another kind of Saint-Émilion maverick is Xavier David Beaulieu of Château Coutet, a multi-generational winery whose quirkiness is refl ected in its long history and its cur- rent stewardship. If Beaulieu lived in Brooklyn or Portland, Oregon, he'd be an artisanal cult hero. Here, he's somewhat of an enigma. His triangular-shaped plot of 14 hectares (35 acres) is sur- rounded by Premier or Grand Cru Classé estates—Angélus, Beauséjour, Grand Mayne. Yet Coutet, which lost its own Grand Cru Classé in 1985, is an anomaly among the grandes dames. Its terroir is enviably rich, but above ground, the soil is lumpy and many of the vines are in tatters. Beaulieu may perplex his neighbors, but they also admire his non-conformity. "He has one of the most exciting terroirs in the world," says Quenin. "If he worked the vines properly, he can sell the wine for 100 euros a bottle, but he just doesn't think about that. He is very unique." The state of the estate is intentional. Little has changed here since the 19th century: The land was plowed by horse until 15 years ago, when the winery was wired for electricity. The entire plot is biodynamic by nature and here, rare fl ora and fauna exist because of the extreme protected territory. And the wines? Wild, savory, earthy and rich. "It's not a choice; it's how we have always done it," says Beaulieu. "With my brother, my job is to bring Coutet back to its place." The non- conformist: Xavier David Beaulieu of Château Coutet. Marie-Bénédicte Lefévère from Château Sansonnet. Against the advice of everyone, she changed careers to buy a declassifi ed winery and is working to restore its name. Old Guard Welcomes the New World Order More of Saint-Émilion's enterprising spirit can be found even in the storied estates. Increasingly, the old guard is hiring young guns armed with new ideas and social media tactics. So, while they're not making new wines, they are making new inroads. At the fairy-tale-like Château de La Rivière, Marketing Manager Thierry Disclyn is using weekly YouTube videos to promote the winery. At Château Gaby, Pierre Rebaud uses youwine.tv, Facebook and Twitter to chat not only about the winery, but also Canon Fronsac, one of Saint Emilion's satellite appellations. Both men say the new media give them opportu- nities to capture a lifestyle beyond the borders of the estates. Such a holistic view is typical of the area, says Guy Meslin at Château Laroze, because winemakers here truly have the "It takes a village" mindset. Meslin and his neighbor, Pierre Mirande at the similarly named Château La Rose Côtes Rol, are part of an effort to promote the appellation while also protecting its down-home character. "Families who are wine-passionate are here because they want to become involved in the local life," Meslin said. "Other [regions] are institutions; people restore houses but don't live there. They lose something terms of village life." To help show visitors that slice of life, more châteaux are embracing oenotourisme (wine tourism), a term that has only recently come into vogue. At Château Haut Sarpe, one of seven Libourne-area estates owned by the Joseph january/february 2012 / the tasting panel / 89 PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT

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