Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/53193
BLUE REVIEWS Russian River Master: 88 Gary Farrell GARY FARRELL'S VERY FIRST RELEASE—a 1982 Pinot Noir from the Rochioli Vineyard—became one of the most decorated wines of the vin- tage, placing the young winemaker among the elite of California vintners. Farrell's association with Sonoma's Russian River Valley—and with its signature Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—is legendary. After selling his successful Gary Farrell brand in 2004, he turned to a new project—Alysian—part- nering with long-time friend and colleague Bill Hambrecht in 2007 to craft tiny amounts of small-lot, ultra- premium Pinot Noir and Gary Farrell at work in the Russian River Valley. Chardonnay from Russian River fruit. (A single Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley was made in the outstanding 2009 vintage.) Here are my notes on these exceptional wines. 90 92 93 93 91 Alysian 2009 Chardonnay, Russian River Selection, Russian River Valley ($36) Tangy yet elegant, with racy acidity and a freshness showing bright fruit and silky texture; long and quite lovely. Alysian 2009 Chardonnay, Clone 4, Westside Farms Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($40) Ripe, juicy and feminine with tangy citrus, soft, sweet oak and lovely balance; a seamless Chardonnay with complexity and loads of charm. Alysian 2009 Zinfandel, Bradford Mountain Block Three, Dry Creek Valley ($36) Fragrant, smooth and juicy black raspberry, cherry and tangy acidity; long, pure and racy with exquisite flavors and great style; this is what Zinfandel was meant to taste like. Alysian 2008 Pinot Noir, Rock Hill, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($55) Silky and smooth with ripe cherry, bright acidity and elegant notes of earth; juicy, tangy and lovely with balance and a long, pure finish. Alysian 2008 Pinot Noir, West Block, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($55) Smooth and lush with meaty cherry and berry fruit; rich and dense with style and depth. For Anthony Dias Blue's complete interview with Gary Farrell, go to www.tastingpanelmag.com. 50 / the tasting panel / january/february 2012 90 Villa Matilde 2008 Aglianico, Campania, Italy ($9) Dark and dense with ripe plum, cassis and spice; deep and concentrated with herbs and earthy notes. EMPSON USA 88 Tamás Estates 2009 Double Decker Red, Central Coast ($13) Bright, fresh and juicy with tangy black raspberry and plum; racy, smooth and balanced; generous and long. WENTE VINEYARDS Terrazas de los Andes 2009 Malbec Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina ($15) Dark and plummy, juicy black cherry, tangy and toasty; violets, spice and youthful exuberance; racy and bright with good length. MOËT HENNESSY USA SPIRITS 93 Fuzzy's Ultra- Premium Vodka, USA ($30) Smooth vanilla nose; silky texture; clean, mellow and elegant with ultra-smooth texture and lovely dry vanilla flavor that lasts a long time; nice heat on the finish. FUZZY'S SPIRITS 90 91 Exclusiv Vodka, Moldova ($13, 1 liter) Soft, neutral nose; edgy and straightforward with some roughness and notes of vanilla; light- textured with alcohol heat and spice; distilled from wheat. SERGE IMPORT LLC Voli Orange Vanilla Fusion, France ($25) A smooth and creamy flavored vodka with sweet vanilla and intriguing hints of orange and orange peel; lush and mellow. VOLI SPIRITS LLC