The Tasting Panel magazine

January/February 2012

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A LONE STAR LIFE Riley's Tavern A Notes from by Anthony Head / photo by Kirk Weddle nother turning of the calendar and another 12 months left for the archives. Another year spent helping to slowly advance the Texas alcohol agenda. It's a long walk, and I've only joined it recently, but since 1933, following the dismantling of Prohibition, Texas has trod sluggishly the uphill path to rebuild- ing, expanding and improving our state's alcohol infrastructure. In the past decade or so, there's been a real push within the industry to combine Texas history (vintage-esque bottles, tribute labels, "traditional" ingredients) with stubborn, innovative and passionate craftsmanship. The quality of our wines, beers and spirits is truly world-class—creating delicious benchmarks for future vintners, brewers and distillers. But the quantities pro- duced are still, for the most part, limited, so the bottles rarely make it beyond the state lines. (I guess that's not my problem, though.) The ladies and gentlemen working within the systems of government and commerce, especially the Texas Department of Agriculture, are also top-notch. I've seen them out in the fields doing whatever it takes to bring more quality products to the point-of-sale front lines. They help make it easy for bartenders and retail-sales merchants to take pride in ringing up a Texas bottle. I've enjoyed two Lone Stars while composing this The author ponders the state of the state over a Lone Star beer. at Riley's Tavern in idyllic downtown Hunter, Texas (population: steady). I might order another. Riley's is secure in Texas alcohol lore, having procured the state's first post-Prohibition license to sell beer (back in 1933). In the intervening decades, I'm happy to learn, only a few upgrades have been needed to enhance the joint. But I come here for the people—on both sides of the bar—not just the history. Joel (Riley's owner) and Megan* (Riley's angel) make stopping by feel about as welcoming as any place that's not already home. All that being said, Texas continues to fly its "blue law" banner, and liquor stores remain shuttered to the population on Sundays. So I have to (again!) ask my fellow Texans and my fellow Americans: When is my government going to start treating me as an adult? Well, what's to get so worked up about? I guess as long as there are places like Riley's around, then I'm still getting a pretty good deal. Cheers and Happy New Year. *If I misspelled your name, then I owe you a round next time I roll through. 38 / the tasting panel / january/february 2012

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