The Tasting Panel magazine

RESTO RUNDOWN Paris Dining 2012 I by Anthony Dias Blue n Paris the most popular activity, for locals and tourists alike, is dining. Other pursuits (things to do between meals) include shopping and looking at art. And, you'll be happy to know, bars are growing in popularity. But here, in abbre- viated form, are my personal choices for a week of main events: eating in Paris—two meals per day with one left over. L'Ami Louis Ridiculously over-priced, often rude; huge portions of classic, frequently superb bistro fare. 32, rue du Vertbois, 3ème, 01-48-87-77-48 Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes Happy and boisterous Lyonnais bouchon where the cassoulet is always bubbling, as is the proprietress. 106, rue de la Folie-Méricourt, 11ème, 01-43-57-33-78 Aux Lyonnais An Alain Ducasse re-do of an ancient and atmospheric bistro; dishes have been lightened and modernized but are still warming and traditional; lovely quenelles. 32, rue St-Marc, 2ème, 01-42-96-65-04 Bistrot Paul Bert Fabulous bistro/wine bar—my favorite—with terrific food and an exciting wine list; don't miss the Paris-Brest for dessert. 18, rue Paul Bert, 11ème, 01-43-72-24-01 D'Chez Eux Hearty charcuterie and dishes of the Southwest served in copious portions by aproned waiters. 2, avenue Lowendal, 7ème, 01-47-05-52-55 Frenchie The chef trained in London and New York then returned home to offer is own stylish version of modern bistro cooking. 5, rue du Nil, 2ème, 01-40-39-96-19 Huîtrerie Régis The freshest, most delicious oysters trucked in from Brittany every day; brilliant. 3, rue de Montfaucon, 6ème, 01-44-41-10-07 Joséphine "Chez Dumonet" Traditional and delightful; boeuf Bourguignon, grilled beef (rare only) and game birds; this place offers half portions. 117, rue du Cherche-Midi, 6ème, 01-45-48-52-40 La Cigale Récamier The best soufflés, both savory and sweet; many choices—cheese, mushrooms, salted caramel— all outstanding. 4, rue Récamier, 7ème, 01-45-48-86-58 Le Comptoir du Relais Forget getting into Yves Camdeborde's bistro for dinner, but a lovely lunch of hearty Southwest dishes is first-come-first-served. 9, Carrefour de l'Odéon, 6ème, 01-44-27-07-97 Le Dali (Hôtel Meurice )While the main dining room may be the best and most expensive restaurant in Paris, you can sample chef Yannick Alléno's more casual cuisine for much less in this Philippe Starck–designed space; a chilled glass of Pommery Rosé and the best club sandwich in Paris—mag- nifique! 228, rue de Rivoli, 1er, 01-44-58-10-44 Le Severo Well-aged, rare meat and very little else is what you get at this tiny bistro owned by a former butcher; excel- lent wine list. 8, rue des Plantes, 14ème, 01-45-40-40-91 Rech Another Alain Ducasse re-do, this is a serious restau- rant featuring seafood and a humongous éclair for dessert. 62, avenue des Ternes, 17ème, 01-45-72-29-47 A WEEK OF EATING IN THE CITY OF LIGHT Les Fables de La Fontaine Christian Constant has four restaurants on this block and this is the most daring; it fea- tures exquisite seafood dishes that are inventive and always delicious. 131, rue St-Dominique, 7ème, 01-44-18-37-55 Spring Young Chicago-born chef Daniel Rose has brought his open kitchen and unique sensibility to Paris, where he has become a cult hero; reserve months in advance if you can. There's a lively, no-reservations wine bar downstairs. 6, rue Bailleul, 1er, 01-45-96-05-72 The phone numbers are important; most of these places are small and tend to get booked up fast—you should definitely call before you leave the States. The French are quite good about honoring reservations (you'll probably have to re- confirm the day of), but you should make your reservations as far in advance as you can. If your plans change, don't forget to call and cancel. january/february 2012 / the tasting panel / 123

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