The Tasting Panel magazine

WINE PAIRING Citronelle D.C. Wine Director and Sommelier Laurent Lala. AT GEORGETOWN'S CITRONELLE, WINE DIRECTOR LAURENT LALA AND CHEF/OWNER MICHEL RICHARD PLAN—AND EXECUTE—AN EXACTING WINE PROGRAM by Dick Rosano / photo by Liz Hough D iners often praise or raze a meal without realizing that it was the wine pairing that converted a simply good dinner into a memorable experience. So here's a quiz for you: What is the most important factor in restaurants providing guests with a memorable wine experience? a) The quality of the wine list, both depth and breadth. b) The selection of wines offered by the glass. c) The pricing of wine. d) The affinity of the wines on the list for the cuisine offered. How about "e"—all of the above? As Americans become more familiar with the world of wines, getting stuck with choosing the bottle in a restaurant is no longer a terrifying experience; for some, it's a pleasure—as long as the estab- lishment has compiled a wine list worth reading. "I am working to create a wine program that is as unique as Citronelle itself," says Wine Director and Sommelier Laurent Lala, referring to Michel Richard's D.C.–based flag- ship restaurant. Laurent is a recent addition to the brightest star in Richard's extraordinary galaxy of restaurants. Suggestion Box A good wine list offers hints to the wine and proper pair- ings, saving the diner the embarrassment of asking in front of someone he would like to impress. Since most wine lovers know, first, how "big" they like their wines, a useful gimmick is to add an icon next to each listing, picturing the relative weight of the selection. More simply, just arrange the entire list by weight instead of price. 116 / the tasting panel / january/february 2012 "To match the rich variety of flavors and aromas of Citronelle, you have to maintain an extensive wine list that can offer a wide range of tasting qualities." But he adds that the Citronelle wine list also has a broad range of prices, from entry-level Rhônes to Grand Crus and First Growth Bordeaux. And more than 30 wines are offered by the glass so dinner guests who order starkly different dishes won't have to settle for a single style of wine. So, in short order, Laurent has satisfied a, b and c. What about d? "We offer a specific wine pairing for the 10-course tasting menu, as well as a separate wine by-the-glass selection that is developed according to our menu," he says. "Foremost, it is my number one priority to provide guidance to the guest, to pair their preferences with the qualities of the dishes on the menu." By visiting the tables and pairing his knowledge of Michel's cooking, Laurent raises the prospects for a wine- food marriage made in heaven. To test Laurent's approach, we began with Chef Richard's lamb loin with white bean sauce, a deliciously aromatic dish that is perfect for a chill winter night. Laurent considered the dish and recommended two possible wine pairings, both red. First, the Château Haut Monplaisir 2005 Pur Plaisir (a Malbec from Cahors), "an immense wine," he says, "with succulent, spicy plum and prune fruit, wrapped in round tannins and long with its iron-infused Cahors terroir." For a more classic wine, Laurent suggested the Château Chasse- Spleen 2000 (Moulis-en-Médoc), a wine that "possesses abundant quantities of minerals, earth, black cherry, and cassis fruit." Each of these wines draws on the succulence of the lamb yet they have the body to stand up to the long-roasted, silky flavors of the dish. Balance is key, and by matching the texture of the dish to the texture of the wine, Laurent chose wisely.

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