Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/522996
96 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2015 { tastings } THIS PAST WINTER, THE IN PURSUIT OF BALANCE NEW YORK CITY (IPOB) tasting was an overwhelming success, with a stunning 575 trade mem- bers and 500 consumers attending. Perceptibly, the IPOB movement is building momentum as it has begun to mature. In addition to NYC and San Francisco, IPOB tastings were held in Houston, Osaka and Tokyo this year. What started as a whim—a conversation of some top sommeliers as to the future of California Pinot and Chardonnay—has blossomed into one of our most revered industry tastings. IPOB is an association of 33 California wineries, founded in 2011 by Rajat Parr (Wine Director of Mina Group restaurants, Partner at RN74 in San Francisco & Seattle, and Partner/Proprietor of Domaine de la Côte and Sandhi wines) and Jasmine Hirsch (Sales & Marketing at Hirsch Vineyards). IPOB was created to promote wineries that seek to produce elegant, balanced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. To become an IPOB member, wineries are chosen by an annual blind tasting conducted by a panel of two journalists, an educator/sommelier, a winemaker and a wine director. When tasting, the panel knows only the vintage and county of origin. IPOB has no minimum alcohol levels or mandatory winemaking methods, but wines are limited to California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A month later, I organized a tasting of IPOB Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at NYC's Terroir Tribeca with a group of ten influential wine trade buyers. IPOB wines have entered a competitive U.S. wine market during a period when pricing pressure from low-production vintages has kept Burgundies expensive. "The majority of the wines on my list are American. Three years ago, I noticed people began spending less on American Chardonnay and Pinot. They will spend $80–90, but invest $50–60 more on Premier Cru Burgundy. Now, I can sell an American wine with the confidence that, if they're French wine lovers, it can stand on its own," observed Irene Justiniani, Beverage Director at Bar Americain. The group felt most IPOB wines are priced above a level that would make them "gateway wines" for younger or inexperienced consumers, yet there are avid, receptive, experienced wine buyers for IPOB wines, which have continued to sell well. Jeffrey Patten, owner of Flatiron Wines in NYC's Flatiron District, noted, "There's a growing interest in these wines. Some [veteran wine buyers who drink 'big flavor' California Pinots like Marcassin, Kistler, Kosta Browne] and are more exposed to Burgundy, now they're trying these wines." "The customer who appreciates these wines is willing to spend $40, 50, 60. Most of the time, people who are looking for an 'entry level' Chardonnay want oaky, buttery, over-the-top wines, anyway," stated Jennifer DiDomizio, owner of California Wine Merchants, a boutique shop in NYC's Financial District. Charles Puglia, Wine Director of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, reflected on the growing interest of his guests in IPOB wines: "It's a matter of slowly pushing people outside of what they normally drink from California. It's suggesting that these wines are going to be better with their food, overall. Better acid usually trans- THE CONTINUING ADVENTURE: IN PURSUIT OF BALANCE FOR CHARDS AND PINOTS IN NYC by Chris Fleming, WSET Level III Thanks to IPOB: "Three years ago, I noticed people began spending less on American Chardonnay and Pinot. They will spend $80–90, but invest $50–60 more on Premier Cru Burgundy. Now, I can sell an American wine with the confidence that, if they're French wine lovers, it can stand on its own," observed Irene Justiniani, Beverage Director at Bar Americain, NYC. Seeking Excellence Arnaud Tronche from Racines NYC has IPOB wines on the list. "We're a French restaurant. Guests want to try something French. But when we poured Sandhi Santa Rita Hills Chard by the glass. It worked very well; people loved it. It's not as big, and it's a good way to interest them in something that's a bit different than a big, buttery California Chardonnay."