Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/5037
1 / the tasting panel / december 2009 The Message Brief Encounters Whether THE TASTING PANEL goes to the brand execs or the brands call us, there is an abundance of news to report, from the latest releases to behind-the-scenes experiences with some of the world's most influential importers, winemakers, distillers . . . well, you name it. We may not have enough pages in each issue to devote as much attention as we would like to each person whose path we cross, but please note that if it's in the publication, we deem it noteworthy —Meridith May, Publisher & Executive Editor Holiday Fête? Think Perrier-Jouët T HE TASTING PANEL had a re- cent rendezvous with Chef Ben- jamin Bailly, top toque at the new Petrossian Café in West Hollywood, CA. Bailly is a talent to watch. The 27-year-old wunderkind worked at Joël Robuchon's celebrated restau- rants in Paris, Monaco, Tokyo and Las Vegas before being lured to Los Angeles. His menu is predictably rich in Petrossian's famed caviars, but also includes surprises such as a classic cold borscht and a daring foie gras crème brûlée. We washed all the goodness down with a deep, en- ticing rosé from Champagne Comt- esse Michele-Elyzabeth. —D.G. T o keep its bubbly top-of-mind this holiday season, Pernod Ricard host- ed several events in New York City this fall to promote Perrier-Jouët. The company rolled out its gem champagne producer as well as Chef de Cave Hervé Deschamps, who flew in from Épernay for an intimate trade tasting of the '98, '99 and '00 vintages, as well as the NV Blanc de Blancs and '03 Fleur Rosé. Now on his 14th vintage, Deschamps's elegant style teases out subtle complexities from each unique year, like the lovely floral notes and fuller body on the '98, and gentle notes of brine and smoke in the more acidic '99. The tasting lunch, held at the über-exclusive SoHo House, paired Per- rier-Jouët with Chef Neil Ferguson's mindful modern French cooking. According to the U.S. branch of the Champagne Bureau, sales of bubbly is off 20 percent here from last year, but Fabien Gay, G. H. Mumm's Region- al Brand Director for the Americas and Western Europe, says Perrier-Jouët has suffered far less than other rarefied producers. "About a year ago, we conducted an analysis of the last three decades to see what we could learn from the category's volume trends and to understand how the crisis might affect us," he says. "It is the one area that seems to remain recession-proof." Though confident, the brand is upping the ante, with events such as the SoHo House tasting, more on-premise retail portfolio display and gift-box items, and bolstering its presence in the nightclub sector. — Amy Zavatto Chef Benjamin Bailly at Petrossian Café in West Hollywood. Caviar and Beyond PHOTO: MERIDITH MAY PHOTO: AMY ZAVATTO