The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2011

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Beyond The Sidecar: Easy Mixing With Cognac A Cognac & Tonic with Hennessy VS. Perhaps the best cocktail to The range from Léopold Gourmel eschews traditional VS, VSOP and XO designations. focus on the after-dinner drink or the higher-end connoisseur. Attempting to woo connoisseurs from other spirit categories, some of the cognac houses have created releases which are attractive to those consumers. Courvoisier has 12 year and 21 year old Connoisseur Collection releases with aging and packaging very familiar to whiskey consumers. Hine focuses on releases that identify the years of spirit inside the blend. For the European market, Camus has a pair of releases from Île de Ré, a small island in the Bois Ordinaires region of Cognac, whose flavor profile parallels that of Islay Scotch. Cognac has built its reputation through blending, but one cognac merchant is set to challenge that. Cognac Grosperrin has a line of vintage cognacs aimed at the connoisseur which are unblended, at a higher proof and highlight the amaz- ing complexity and personality that a single vintage barrel of cognac can have. "Complexity and personality are not the same thing," explains Guilhem Grosperrin. "You can make something pleasant and technically correct, but it's boring." Stunningly contemporary Conjure Cognac is handcrafted at the house of Birkedal Hartmann in the heart of the Cognac region. Master Blender Philippe Braastad Tiffon marries together Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Fins Bois and Borderies eaux- de-vie in 50-year-old Limousin barrels. Even the intricately designed bottle exudes class. The lightweight, satiny textured cognac has an alluring mahogany hue and a lavish bou- quet of spice, toffee and dark chocolate. Some cognac producers have abandoned the traditional cognac grading of VS, VSOP and XO for more approachable ways for consumers to understand their products. "I've broken down the different stages that cognac goes through as it ages: fruit, flowers and spice," says Olivier Blanc, Director of Cognac Gourmel, describ- ing the house's Âge du Fruit, Âge des Fleurs and Âge des Épice offerings. Pierre Ferrand also has abandoned the standard grading with its Ambre, Réserve and Esprit des Dieux. Expanding its image as an affable and mixable product that pairs well with food on one hand while convinc- ing whisky connoisseurs to try the category on the other could lead to significant gains for cognac; however, that is only if consumers are willing to overcome dated perceptions about a category making a concerted effort to woo them. Junior Ryan of Portland's Clyde Common mixes the Cognac Summit cocktail with Louis Royer VSOP. The Cognac Summit Cocktail is another fantastic showcase of the light, spicy, fruity and refreshing qualities of cognac. COGNAC SUMMIT 1 lime zest ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 4 thin slices fresh ginger 1½ oz. VSOP cognac 2 oz. fresh lemonade 1 long cucumber peel Place lime zest and ginger slices in glass and pour in VSOP cognac. Lightly press the lime and ginger two to three times with a muddler. Half fill the glass with ice. Stir well for five seconds. Add lemonade and cucumber peel and stir again. december 201 1 / the tasting panel / 73 showcase cognac's easy and affable side is the Cognac & Tonic. While the drink is extremely popular in Cognac, it's fairly unknown in the United States. It's a fantastic way to introduce someone to the category. COGNAC & TONIC ■ ■ ■ ■ 1 oz. of VS or VSOP cognac 3–4 oz. tonic water Ice Stir over ice.

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