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74 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015 As of 2014, Riva Ranch comprises about 1,000 acres of Chardonnay (six clones), Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir (eight clones), Riesling and Viognier. Some of the original Chardonnay vines remain, as do some planted in 1973. However, viticulture has migrated from the original California sprawl with 8x12 spacing and overhead sprinklers to 6x6 and 6x8 with vertical-shoot positioning and drip irrigation. Particular attention is paid to maintaining healthy, balanced soil. There are three distinct soil types in Riva Ranch: foothill highlands; Salinas Valley floor with its large, reflective "Greenfield Potato" stones; and gravelly, sandy loam near Arroyo Seco and Reliz Creek. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are each planted on all three. Those well- draining soils and the long, cool growing season result in grapes that ripen fully, but are higher in acidity and lower in sugar than those from many other regions. Wente Vineyard's first vineyard-designated Riva Ranch Chardonnay was derived from the 1984 vintage. The wine has been produced every year since. The Wente Vineyards 2013 Riva Ranch Chardonnay (SRP $22) is long and silky with medium-plus body and notable acidity. The nose entices gently with pear, golden apple, cinnamon and a hint of sweet cream. Those notes carry through on the palate, and are joined by butterscotch and accents of baked pineapple and ripe green apple. "I want the fruit to be the lead horse," Wente says. "But it's barrel-fermented, sur lie–aged and has some malolactic. I'm looking for balanced richness." The result is a delicious wine that is able to please a wide audience and disappear quickly from the glass. PHOTO: SAM HARNACK The Wente family today: Fourth Generation Winegrower Philip, Fourth Generation Winegrower Carolyn, Fifth Generation Winemaker Karl, Fifth Generation Winegrower Christine and Fourth Generation Winegrower Eric. The Wente family circa 1895: Ernest, May, Barbara, Herman, Carl H., Carolyn and Carl F. The terroir of Riva Ranch offers three distinct, well- drained soil types; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are each planted on all three.