Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/457084
{ SOMMjournal.com } 67 PHOTO CROUTESY OF TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES PHOTO CROUTESY OF TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Pacific Rim Ripeness "I think the climate conditions and soil types are the key here. Leyda is a very particular area because of its proximity to the Pacific [Ocean]," says Labbé, which, in the case of the vineyards dedicated to Wave, is a scant three miles. "It's a blessed region, with a very long, cool-climate ripening season. Some of the currents and sea breezes come inland and go through the valley, cooling down vineyards," which, he points out, is very similar to that of Sonoma County's Russian River Valley, famed for its Pinot Noir produc- tion. That Pacific influence is also the breezy idea behind the Wave Series. It was Labbé's personal love for surfing and the sea that was the direct inspiration behind the wines' Left and Right Wave designations, which are featured on the labels and represent that elusive balance. According to Labbé, in all of the world's shorelines, there are left-handed and right- handed waves—that is, waves that hit the shore from a certain directional aspect. In Chile, the most common waves origi- nate in the south, so as a nod to Chilean Sauvignon Blanc's now well-known reputa- tion, he dubbed it "Left Wave." But occa- sionally, conditions are ideal for the rare right-breaking wave. As a surfer, it's some- thing Labbé's always on the look-out for : that rare but special wave that can turn a day on the shore from good to spec- tacular—for him, that's the Wave Series Pinot Noir "Right Wave." And it's something he fully expects will become less of a rar- ity as Chilean Pinot Noir plantings gain in abundance and in age. "For Chile, Sauvignon Blanc has been proven in quality. Pinot Noir is a little behind because to make quality Pinot you need older vineyards. Chile's are younger, so the 'old' plantings of Pinot have been coming in over the last ten years, and the average age is no more than ten," Labbé says. "But I think when you look at soil in Leyda—granite formations over 15 to 20 percent clay with alluvial drainage—that provides a lot of structure. Go to Burgundy, and the right amount of clay separates the good Pinot from the okay Pinot. It sets it apart. That's why I think Leyda will make outstanding Pinot Noir. But between the increasing age, clonal selection and the right type of soil here, we can make some very interesting wines." Catching the Swell Of course, the Trinchero family has long been an innovator, unafraid to explore interesting ideas (hello, White Zinfandel!) and new areas (from Lake County in California to Leyda Valley in Chile). Pairing with Labbé, they've bet on a man who knows how to ride a wave—and craft great wines. The crisp, bright Sauvignon Blanc offers aromas of white grapefruit, spring flowers and wet stones, with a lip-smacking lime presence on the palate that keeps you coming back for more. The Pinot Noir sees no barrel time, so the expression is pure Leyda fruit: tiny, compact strawber- ries, raspberry and mint tea on the nose, and concentrated but bright fruit on the palate, with notes of strawberry, red plum and cinnamon. It's a wine that offers a kind of purity that makes the mind—and pal- ate—race with the potential for more. "I think the Wave Series is another player in the big game of Pinot Noir coming from Chile. We want to create a fresh, easy- drinking wine. There's no oak, because it's the purity of the Pinot that we want to show," he says. "You can see the potential [it] can achieve, and how ripe you can get it. It's a very good expression of Pinot but made in a delicate style . . . showing off the freshness of the fruit and its elegance." Initially launched with just 5,000 cases of each, the production has now tripled and it seems there is only the potential for it to swell. Our Wave Series wines are dedicated to the ocean, says Labbé, "and to the pure flavors and balance we've been blessed to receive." Beauty and the beach: "Right Wave" Pinot Noir from Chile expresses its Pacific-adjacent terroir. Dedicated to the ocean: Food-friendly "Left Wave" Sauvignon Blanc is an excel- lent match for seafood.