Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/457084
{ SOMMjournal.com } 63 family's philosophy of tradition and technol- ogy, homage and evolution. Their top-flight rosés are natural, not industrial. They move from concrete to hundred-year-old oak foudres that Roux's grandfather installed around the time he founded the appella- tion and planted the region's first Tibouren. Many Provençals like the use of oak, but not the taste of oak. "When the wines have so much sun, they don't need other things," said sommelier Matthew Wirtala. Despite the pedigree—Roux opened a still-beguiling Tibouren 1978—they are still discovering. "Je ne sais pas," he answered one somm. "But we are not afraid to not know." "Why do we talk about rosé 'season'? Rosé is not a vegetable." said sommelier Jordan Egan. The somms agreed that no longer should we link rosé to temperature: It's linked to food and leisure. We're used to French wines pinning their reputations to low yields, high scores, legacy and endowment, "but rosé is light and easy, democratic, new and accessible . . . like America," said Millo. And then there are the reds. Marquis Michel d'Espagnet decanted his Château de Pourcieux Grand Millésime 2001 AOP Côtes de Provence. Its purity and lightness had somms clamoring for an allocation. The 95% Syrah, 4% Grenache and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon is unfiltered, "except for a lady's stocking," said d'Espagnet. The U.S. we won't see many Provence reds—they're only 9% of production—but that's our loss. Added the Marquis, "I will make reds when I want to." Who knows, IGP monovarietals from Rolle (Vermentino) and reds from Syrah could soon evolve into a cultish kind of "Super Provence" category. OUI SHALL OVERCOME To catch a pal's 50th birthday, I caught the first flight back to the States. I brought a magnum of Château La Calisse 2013 Patricia Ortelli Rosé, signed by Ortelli herself. Following the rosé, some forgettable reds came out and a guest remarked, "Now the real wine!" While no one was looking, I scored a last pour from the mag—abandoned like my court-side suede—and sat back to savor it. I knew that the best wine on the table, and a dose of Provençal contentment, were in my glass. RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS Cellier Saint Sidoine Value-driven cooperative wines. PRESTIGE WINE GROUP, PRINCETON, MN Château La Calisse Handcrafted, can't-miss wines all-around. MARGAUX & COMPANY, CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA Château de Pourcieux Solid rosé. Show-stopping reds. BARON FRANÇOIS, NEW YORK, NY Château Roubine Elegant biodynamic portfolio. EUROPEAN WINE IMPORTS, CLEVELAND, OH Château Sainte Marguerite Clean and classic. DREYFUS, ASHBY & CO., NEW YORK, NY Clos Cibonne Champions of Tibouren and ageability. DE MAISON SELECTIONS, CHAPEL HILL, NC Domaine de la Sanglière Familiar and typical. EUROPEAN WINE IMPORTS, CLEVELAND, OH Domaine de l'Île Terrific, terroir-driven line-up. NANTUCKET IMPORTS, CUMBERLAND, RI Domaine de Saint-Ser Notable rolle and reds. POLANER SELECTIONS, MT. KISCO, NY Domaine Saint André de Figuière Look for their sparklers. THE COUNTRY VINTNER, OILVILLE, VA Marquis Michel d'Espagnet at his Château de Pourcieux AOP. Owner Valérie Riboud-Rousselle with fresh Grenache at Château Roubine. Sébastien Le Ber with his son Arthur and daughter Zoé at Domaine de l'Île.