The SOMM Journal

February/March 2015

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  51 Where possible, I grouped wines from like crus together and we were able to taste wines from Fourchaume, Vaillons, Vaugiraut, Fourneaux and Les Clos side by side. The $30 Premier Cru from Domaine Boudin (Fourchaume) gave the panel an excellent start out of the gate. "This is what Chablis is, in my opinion," Mike said. "It's classic in its aroma with flowers, lemons, minerals, flinty, chalky, sea-shelly. The mid palate had a really nice—almost plush quality, but quickly transitioned into this saline, mouthwatering mineral finish." The group agreed, with Édouard calling it a "very rich wine, ready to drink now," and Victor noting its "generosity" and "very focused and citrusy finish." In most wines, the group found traits that telegraph Chablis. Minerality would dominate as the overarching flavor characteristics of most wines—in some cases overwhelming the fruit. Citrus was another prevalent note, ranging from candied lemon to lime rind. Some wines had a peach aspect to them (Domaine Jolly, both wines from Domaine Vincent Dampt, Joseph Drouhin). Flint would lead in wines from Domaine Jolly, Charly Nicolle and Louis Michel, and other notes such as "milk carton" and "lactic" showed up in wines from Domaine Jolly, Vincent Dampt, Domaine Philippe Goulley, Domaine Oudin (2011), Jean-Pierre Grosset (2010 from Les Fourneaux), and Joseph Drouhin. But all panelists agreed that what most defines Chablis is precision, clarity, and a balance of fruit and earth—whether smoky flint or a taste of Jurassic soil. "Great textbook Chablis is a balance of purity of fruit and chalky minerality laced with flinty smokiness. I know that sounds like everybody else's definition of Chablis, but it rings true to my markers of that place," said Eduardo. "If too much oak is present, that is a major detractor. If the wines lack precision or are muddled in aromatics or flavor, it's tough to pinpoint their place and so, those wines lack typicity of Chablis." BEST IN SHOW Louis Michel & Fils 2012 Grand Cru Vaudésir ($56) Wowed this panel with its "river water purity," mineral- ity and high quality of fruit. "Exciting wine. Great balance, good energy, full and focused." "Elegant and inspiring." "Off- the-charts extraordinary." VINEYARD BRANDS Domaine Boudin 2013 Premier Cru Fourchaume ($30) Classic, pleasant clarity and pure chalk expression. Focused palate, plush, mouth- watering finish. MICHAEL SKURKNIK WINES Domaine Oudin 2010 Premier Cru Vaugiraut ($33) Citrus, spice and every- thing nice. Lots of well-placed acidity, mineral, clean. "Nice texture, touch of salt, ripe pears, cooked apples, great length, poached pear finish." JENNY & FRANÇOIS Jean-Pierre Grosset 2010 Premier Cru Les Fourneaux ($40) High-energy palate with "great" acid and very good length. Classic dusty, chalk pro- file with lemon pith, "woolly" gunpowder finish. Salty and powerful style of wine. VOS SELECTIONS No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 (tie) No. 3 (tie) Édouard Bourgeois, Head Sommelier at Café Boulud.

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