The SOMM Journal

February/March 2015

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  35 ken for the O. Fournier Santé Resort, a spa hotel designed by renowned hotel designer Tony Chi. Such a facility will add greatly both to the value of the plots and to the Uco Valley itself. TOP WINES The Mendoza range goes from the entry level "Urban", through "Alfa Crux" and "B Crux" named after stars from the Southern Cross constellation (only visible in the Southern Hemisphere), to the "Icon O. Fournier" with its distinctive grey label. Alfa Crux Chardonnay 2013 Fresh lemon yellow, fine clarity and purity of citrusy fruit, more vineyard than Chardonnay, good length and good future through 2018. 17.25/20. B Crux 2010 40% each Tempranillo and Malbec, 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional. Dense dark red, big rich fleshy and ripe fruit, natural tannins and still lots of youth and grip; through 2022. 17.25/20. Alfa Crux Malbec 2010 40-year-old vines. Very young dark red, dense fruit with chocolate elements, rich and smooth, needs to lose its "baby fat", 2016-24. 17.25/20. O. Fournier 2002 100% 60-year-old Syrah. Dense young red, rich fruit on the nose and good middle palate, not too spicy, more vineyard than Syrah; lovely now to 2020. 17.5/20. CHILE Following much research on the other side of the Andes, two regions were chosen for the Cult Grapes project: Lo Abarca (San Antonio Valley) in the north where Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah have been planted on 35 hectares (86 acres) and a grape contract for Sauvignon Blanc in the Leyda area has been negotiated: in the Maule Valley, Chile's central and original wine region, long term agreements have been made with vineyards planted 65 to 120 years ago. The largest vineyard to be leased, La Higuera, covers 41 hectares (101 acres) of 80-year-old vines bordering the Loncomilla River on the high banks of which an 800,000-litre gravity flow winery will soon begin construction, the wines currently being made at a winery previously used by Kendall-Jackson. While the Lo Abarca vineyards are at 150–200 metres just five kilometres from the cooling Pacific Ocean, those in Maule are between 300 and 400 metres, with a temperature dif- ference of up to 20 degrees C between day and night that requires a long hang-time to produce reds with excellent colour, elegance, natural acidity and a structure that shows superbly as they mature. TOP WINES Alfa Centauri Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Leyda Valley Lemon yellow, white fruits nose, fleshy yet good grip, intense yet balanced. To 2017. 16.75/20. Alfa Centauri 2009 Maule Valley 90% 120 year old Cabernet Franc and 10% 80 year old Carignan. Fresh red, raspberry aromas over superb clarity of fruit and good middle sweetness, a totally individual vineyard wine, to 2022. 17.5/20. O. Fournier 2009 Maule Valley 80% Cabernet Franc (1890 planting, ungrafted), 10% Carignan (60 years, ungrafted), 10% Syrah. Youthful dense red, natural richness and succulent length, Cabernet Franc fragrance on nose and palate, natural tannins, still needs time; 2016–25. 17.5/20. O. Fournier 2008 Maule Valley 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Carignan, all 60–100 years old, ungrafted. Lovely deep colour, younger than the 2009, more depth of fruit, style and grip, superb natural ripeness/acidity/tan- nins, fine structure over almost mouth-watering fruit, very good indeed; to 2025. 18.5/20. SPAIN O. Fournier acquired 110 hectares between La Horra and Roa de Duero in the southern part of the DO Ribera del Duero. The 65 hectares of Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo) vines date from 1946 with an average age of over 40 years, with one hectare (2.5 acres) of Merlot planted in 2000. The soils range from allu- vial/sand on a clay base similar to Pomerol, to rounded stones reminiscent of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The sparsely-planted bush vines at 700–800 metres in a continental climate with Atlantic influences give very low yields but very high quality. The winery, virtually abandoned at the time of purchase, has been completely renovated to the gravity system with a production and storage capacity of 325,000 litres and a 2,000-barrel cellar. There is a guest house on the property and a smaller version of the Mendoza Wine Partners will be launched in 2015. TOP WINES Spiga 2010 Ribera del Duero 12 months French oak, unfil- tered. Full young colour, smooth and ripe, a lovely expression of Tempranillo with spice and grip that Rioja sometimes lacks; to 2018. 16.75/20. O. Fournier 2007 Ribera del Duero 20 months new French and Central European oak, unfiltered. Deep rich colour, wonder- ful fruit and spice on the nose, vigour and richness on the palate, concentrated but not heavy; to 2022. 18/20. At the beginning I admitted my profound admiration of José Manuel Ortega, and writing this has confirmed and strengthened my opinion. A few years ago I asked him what his overall aim was and he replied "to become a mini-Mondavi." José Manuel is too much of a gentleman to feel he merits such icon status, but I bet that it will be thrust upon him before too long. Note: All the wines above were tasted at a presentation made by José Manuel Ortega and José Spisso, Head Winemaker for O. Fournier in all three countries, at The Quality Chop House, Farringdon Road, London on 21 October 2014. O. Fournier wines are imported to the U.S. by Craft + Estate (The Winebow Group). PHOTO COURTESY OF O. FOURNIER O. Fournier's impressive modern winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

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