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32 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015 Some may ask, why build a winery so close to an active volcano? Alessio offers some perspective: "Sicilians live on a magical and dangerous island. People have always cultivated the volcano because the beauty and potential was stronger than the danger. Today we have more effective instruments for measuring seismic phenomena and bet- ter techniques for diverting lava. We are also hopeful that Mother Nature will love the beautiful vineyards of Etna. But if it should happen to the contrary, as other Sicilians have done thousands of years ago, we will rebuild everything and replant the vineyards." At elevations between 2,000 and 2,900 feet, Planeta's Sciara Nuova, Montelaguardia, Torreguarino and Pietramarina vineyards thrive in nutrient-poor yet richly mineral, quick-draining volcanic soils. Planted six years ago on east-facing slopes, the 26 hectares (64 acres) of vines comprise mainly native Nerello Mascalese red and Carricante white varieties, with a few nearby plots of Pinot Nero and Riesling. Introduced with the first vintage in 2012 and now available in the U.S., Planeta's Wines of Etna collection includes two reds, two whites, and a 100% Carricante Brut spumante produced in the metodo classico. However, only the Etna Bianco and Etna Rosso labels carry the Etna DOC designa- tion. Two premium bottlings, Eruzione 1614 Carricante and Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese (the name refers to a major erup- tion that occurred in 1614), are labeled with the broader DOC Sicilia designation. Why the difference? "The Eruzione labels embody the concept of cru. They are different from Etna DOC in terms of grape selection and winemaking technique," explains Alessio. "Moreover, the two Eruzione wines come from very-high-altitude vineyards in Sciara Nuova—so high that they are above the limit of DOC Etna appellation. So we don't use it." DOC particulars aside, Planeta's Etna wines deliver a purity and verve that strike an edgy balance between high-altitude acidity, varietal fruit character and discreet minerality. And despite Sicily's reputation as a parched Mediterranean climate where olives, manda- rins and almonds thrive under the southern sun, Etna's altitude delivers cooler tem- peratures and increased rainfall (and snow in winter), resulting in a longer growing season (typically harvest occurs in late October) and leaner-styled wines that are graceful, easy- drinking, and layered with vibrant fruit flavors and earthy minerals. "Etna wines combine ancient tradition, intensity and freshness," says Alessio. "On a theoretical level, and with all due respect to the greats, we could assimilate Etna red with Piedmont, thanks to a certain similarity between Nebbiolo and Nerello. The whites have fresh acidity that, again with all due respect, might resemble Chablis." On a landscape in a constant state of flux, where the shape of Mount Etna's cone can reinvent itself on a moment's notice, the sky growing dark with ash and memories of Pompeii lurking along the edges of the com- munal subconscious, life teeters on a perilous edge of uncertainty and change—a kind of jitteriness that can only stem from centuries of coexistence with a whimsical volcano. Yet radiating from this tension is movement, renewal and a sense of assured persistence. Planeta captures that energy—call it the essence of life rising from the ashen earth— with its Wines of Etna collection. Yet instead of brutish force and brawniness, these wines arrive on the palate with grace, elegance and nuanced characteristics that defy their primordial pedigree. "Sicilians live on a magical and dangerous island," says Head Winemaker Alessio Planeta. PHOTO COURTESY OF PLANETA Made from 100% Carricante grapes, the Planeta Brut Metodo Classico ($39.99) is the sparkling wine in the Etna line. The grapes are harvested early in crates to preserve their acidity. They are then crushed and destemmed and sent off for soft-pressing. The decanted must is racked and inoculated with yeast. It is left to ferment at 15°C for 15 days in a dedicated room. The wine is then left on the fine lees until January and continuously swirled. In late March, the wine is prepared for tirage and bottled. It is left on the lees for 15–18 months, and then undergoes disgorgement. A scintillating sparkler.