The SOMM Journal

February/March 2015

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Page 52 of 92

52 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015 We tasted five pairs of wines from the same producer, separated by either climat or vintage year, and yielding different results. By coincidence, in all cases, the second wine in these pairings was the stronger representation of Chablis. That, Mike said, "goes to show you, you never own wine; wine owns you. And that's a good thing." After all 16 bottles were revealed, the panel retasted five that intrigued them the most (parenthetical indicates position in tasting order): Domaine Boudin 2013 Premier Cru Fourchaume (#1); Jean- Pierre Grosset 2011 Premier Cru Mont de Milieu (#8); Domaine Oudin 2010 Premier Cru Vaugiraut (#10); Jean-Pierre Grosset 2010 Premier Cru Les Fourneaux (#12) and Louis Michel & Fils 2012 Grand Cru Vaudésir (#13). While the 2011 Domain Oudin did not impress ("When you try to go deep and get the most out of it, you can't because the minerality was too well-hidden," said Édouard), the 2010 did, especially after opening up and with "the naturalness coming out of it," Mike noted. Of the two Jean-Pierre Grossets, the panel decided the Mont de Milieu became too lactic, and gave the nod to Les Fourneaux for its high energy. What reigned supreme: Louis Michel & Fils Grand Cru Vaudésir, a wine Eduardo called "too legit to quit," and which won accolades from all as a wine that kept on giving. "For me, this has the richness and com- plexity you want in a textbook Chablis," said Victor. CHALKING UP CHABLIS Domaine Jolly 2013 Premier Cru Fourchaume "L'Homme Mort" ($30) Easy with fruity aromatics and fleshy peach palate, but with a lack of dimension that keeps it from being classic Chablis. Still found traces in smoky, slightly lactic nose, lime rind, mineral notes. More of a BTG selection. ESPRIT DU VIN Domaine Vincent Dampt 2013 Premier Cru Côte de Lechet ($35) Residual sugar overshadowed the fruit, with candied notes ranging from cotton candy to confectioner's sugar and taffy. Not showing typicity. MICHAEL SKURNIK WINES Domaine Vincent Dampt 2013 Premier Cru Vaillons ($35) Exotic nose of peach and citrus, cloves and mineral. Long mineral finish, very good but not intense. Good for every day drinking. MICHAEL SKURNIK WINES Laroche 2012 Premier Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes ($51) Dominant sulphur. "Very challenging to assess at this time." WILSON DANIELS William Fèvre 2012 Premier Cru Montmains ($50) Not as expressive as expected from this producer. Mineral character was coarse and intense with tart lemon and saline. HENRIOT INC. Domaine Philippe Goulley 2008 Premier Cru Montmains ($30) Off-putting nose. Sulphuric and bitter even with some age on it. GOLDEN RAM IMPORTS Jean-Pierre Grosset 2011 Premier Cru Mont de Milieu ($45) Bitterness and hard phenolics overwhelmed the fruit, though one taster liked its flint and chalk and "encompassing presence on palate." VOS SELECTIONS Domaine Oudin 2011 Premier Cru Vaugiraut ($34) Mineral, stony. Some bitter- ness and lemon pith. Not showing depth nor typicity. JENNY & FRANÇOIS Charly Nicolle 2012 Premier Cru Fourneaux ($45) Ripe, full and somewhat "pushed." Strong oak spine that needs time to integrate in the wine. ROBERT KACHER SELECTIONS William Fèvre 2012 Premier Cru Vaulorent ($60) Lean, lemony, acidic. Brassy flavors. "Toothpick quality," lacking typicity. HENRIOT INC. Laroche 2012 Grand Cru Le Clos ($136) Oak-dominant, comments ranged from sexy to complex and textured. Better received than the earlier Laroche, but needs time to integrate. WILSON DANIELS Joseph Drouhin 2011 Grand Cru Les Clos ($81) Off-balanced with bitter, green/ phenolic notes; lactic and caramel on the finish. DREYFUS ,ASHBY The Quaff Report thanks our panel and the support of: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., Golden Ram Imports, Henriot Inc., Jenny & François, Palm Bay International/ Esprit du Vin, Robert Kacher Selections, Michael Skurnik Wines, Vineyard Brands, VOS Selections and Wilson Daniels. Special thanks to Teuwen Communications for providing space and staff support. Victor Pinkston, Head Sommelier at db bistro modern.

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