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a rosé. The aroma of Tempranillo is like strawberries and cassis, while the Syrah brings floral and mint. When we mix both, the mouth is more complex," she explained on my recent visit to the winery. It is this experimentation, com- bined with the ubiquitous commit- ment to excellence, that runs across all the Gonzalez-Byass properties. "We could cut costs and make a lot more wine a lot more cheaply, but the wine wouldn't be as good," declares Felipe González-Gordon, President of González -Byass USA. That accounts for the ever-improv- ing, ever-expanding array of wines from Finca Constancia, and all the group's labels. The wines are handled in the States by San Francisco Wine Exchange. rry TABLE WINES ARE ANOTHER SIDE OF GONZÁLEZ-BYASS by Nick Passmore González-Byass in Rioja and Somontano I recently sampled table wines from Beronia and Viñas del Vero, González-Byass's properties in Rioja and Somontano, respectively, in a tasting with Felipe González-Gordon. Here are my notes. —Anthony Dias Blue Beronia 2010 Tempranillo Rosé, Rioja ($12) Smooth and ripe with spice, depth and juicy berry fruit; lively, charming and delicious; fresh. 89 Beronia 2006 Reserva, Rioja ($20) Smooth and mature with ripe plum, complex berries and spice; lush and deep, homogeneous and complex. 90 Beronia 2004 Gran Reserva, Rioja ($28) Deep, rich and luscious with mature plum and berry fruit; a great example of what a fine, aged wine should be; seamless, complex and lingering. 92 Viñas del Vero 2009 La Miranda de Secastilla Grenache Blanc, Somontano ($15) Minerally and juicy with tangy peach; ripe and smooth with flesh and spice; long and dense finish. 88 Viñas del Vero 2007 La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha, Somontano ($15) Dense and earthy with rich plum and blackberry fruit; juicy and balanced, lush and deep. 88 Viñas del Vero 2005 Secastilla, Somontano ($35) A mature, rich and deep proprietary Garnacha with luscious plum and cassis; elegant, complex and seamless; long and tangy with grace and finesse. 92 october 201 1 / the tasting panel / 97 Nick Passmore's Notes On Finca Constancia Wines Altozano 2010 Verdejo/Sauvignon Blanc, Vino de Tierra de Castilla ($10) A delightful white blend from Finca Constancia's entry-level tier. Pretty, clean and fresh. Altozano 2010 Rosé, Vino de Tierra de Castilla ($10) A Tempranillo/Syrah so juicy I couldn't spit it out; gorgeous pale scarlet color. A highly complex rosé for the price. Altozano 2009 Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon, Vino de Tierra de Castilla ($10) Packed with rich red fruit aromas laced with spices and notes of violets wrapped in ripe integrated tannins. Finca Constancia 2008 Vino de Tierra de Castilla ($20) Vino de la Tierra de Castilla is a misleadingly humble appella- tion for this highly ambitious silky blend of six red varieties, primarily Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.