Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/430172
72 / the tasting panel / december 2014 I t takes thick skin to care less about wines that are popular. Hence, you can count practically on one hand the number of American restaurants with wine lists based 100% on their cuisine—not on what "sells." One of them being San Francisco's SPQR: proprietor/sommelier Shelley Lindgren's second runaway success, following her acclaimed A16. At SPQR, Lindgren found her license to revel in the huge diversity of wines from Italy when she discovered the talents of her chef, Matthew Accarrino. "It's Chef Matthew's knack for balancing acidity and bringing out nearly end- less flavors with his interpretations of dishes that has allowed us to explore far more variety of wines—more exciting, more complex wines—than what we were featuring at A16." The sweet carrot and lentil salad at SPQR in San Francisco, paired with a Rebula from Slovenia. Owner Shelley Lindgren also serves as Sommelier at SPQR. Chef Matthew Accarino in the kitchen. All in the Match SAN FRANCISCO'S SPQR TAKES MODERN ITALIAN WINES AND FOODS TO UNENDING HEIGHTS story and photos by Randy Caparoso