Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/426275
104 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2014/2015 104 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } Real Matlatl: All about Terroir Everything that goes into making the three expressions of Real Matlatl is done by hand from start to finish says founder Charles Collins. The production is very much grounded in tra- dition—from the third-generation producers he works with to the donkey-driven tahona stone that grinds the cooked agave. But Collins notes another factor not often cited by produc- ers: the migration paths of but- terflies and bats directly over- head, which pollinate the agave plants, and help create fertile ground for the crop. "Agaves are diurnal or nocturnal—it's a com- plete crap shoot depending on wha t nature says. So you need those flight patterns," he says. "Mezcal is all about the terroir. It's more microclimate-sensitive than grapes." It's a small point, but goes to show the careful attention this banker-turned- mezcalero gives to the production of his mezcal. Matlatl's nine expressions, which include a wild Tobala Blanco, are open-fermented with - out yeast and aged in barrels made in his own cooperage. "When it's an artisanal production, it shows . . . you can taste the quality," he says. "It's harnessing all that is great about the properties of the agaves and the end result is exquisite, rich in character and completely moving. It's not something that you'll have often in life." —L. B. El Silencio: Mezcal on an Exclusive Level A family wedding in Oaxaca united bride and groom, and Vicente Cisneros and mezcal. "That's when I got enamored of mezcal," he says of his brother's nuptials. Once smitten, he embarked on a two-year search to find a ninth-generation Master Distiller to oversee production of El Silencio. Cisneros's secret sauce is a blend of three different agaves in the original super-pre - mium El Silencio Joven expression. "Two are so exotic and r are, they only allow us production on a more exclusive level," Cisneros says. For those who can't get their hands on the Joven (80 proof), there's the larger-production and more traditional 86-proof Espadín, flavorful and refined and suitable for both sipping and mixing. "We take pride in being a boutique spirit that is refined in taste, not just for drinking or shooting," says Cisneros. He recommends trying the "El Silencio ritual": slice a cucumber, sprinkle it with chili salt or Tajin seasoning, and alternate bites with sips of El Silencio. —Lana Bortolot glowing: "This was the most complex; very honeyed with deep floral notes, tropical and citrus fruit and a pleasant, friendly touch of smoke." Mills-Knapp found it bolder and rougher than I did, but equally agreeable. LaPratt agreed, "It has so much honey to it, almost a sweetness, but also a shellfish brine. Very complex!" Mestizo fared very well with its joven, and also with the reposado and añejo in the next flight. It is important to point out that all of the Mestizos were 40% alcohol by volume, and most of the other producers tasted were far above that. They were a little softer and less aggressive in many ways. LaPratt called it "nice and floral, clean and super well-balanced," while Mills-Knapp noted, "It has a bit more spice than the others, but it is very smooth." The other two producers in this first flight to receive honorable mention were the Mezcal Marca Negra and Del Maguey Santo Domingo Albarradas. Out of the five oak-aged mezcals, we each picked a different producer as our top choice. The Mestizo Añejo will take the top spot as it was Mills-Knapp's favorite, and LaPratt and I ranked it number two. Mills-Knapp raved, "This tasted what I think really good mezcal should taste like: smoky, savory, a little sweetness, pleasant oak. Bold yet smooth with a really long finish—high-qual - ity." My first pick, Mestizo Reposado, was also Mills-Knapp's sec- ond. I felt it was the least affected by dramatic and pronounced oak flavors and was quite easy, possibly due to the lower alcohol. LaPratt found his top pick Real Matlatl Reposado: "This showed a sense of place, minerality more than any other in this flight." Charles Collins.