Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/3815
58 / the tasting panel / october 2009 lot of variation of climate in the San- ta Ynez Valley," he explains. Living at the Firestone estate, he watches the morning fog move across the valley—lifting first at the northeast end, where we're standing on a 1,000-foot-high mesa at the base of the San Rafael Mountains, and then tapering off from east to west. "This indicates where the warm- est parts of the Valley are—here and to the east at Happy Canyon, where the heat is trapped. There's a saying that we have: For every mile west that you drive, the temperature drops one degree Fahrenheit." Bordeaux reds were 86'd for the most part in Santa Barbara County because of a weedy, green pepper profile. Willenborg gets around that by monitoring water to the roots and canopy management. Differ- ent clones and limiting rootstock also help shut down the vegetative growth cycle. "After I pick the grapes, all I can do from there is screw it up—or not," quips Willenborg, who, with the help of equipment that allows for gentle fruit processing and a bet- ter cooperage program, focuses on the estate fruit—with full control of its farming—to come through, with shining color. Intro-Vinous "Varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon require less water than some other varieties, in order to keep out the vegetative profiles of asparagus, jalapeño or green pepper," Willenborg offers. "You also can't shade it too much or over-expose it to the sun. We do have the ability to be a bit more aggressive with sun exposure than up north; we have a shorter window of heat peaks—from 1 to 2 p.m., followed by afternoon winds—and our fruit is less prone to sunburn." Again, all arrows point to balance, which brings us to our report on Firestone's current vintages: Firestone's 2008 Sauvignon Blanc has star appeal—it's almost as if there were a bright light emanating from the wine in the glass. Its aroma is spring-like, with white-honeyed flowers, citrus fresh- ness and tropical mango and pineapple delicately combined. This month, Firestone releases its 2008 Santa Ynez Valley Estate Gewurztraminer. Enticing and bright, with sweet peach (just a threshold of residual sugar—only one-half percent) and mandarin orange peel. With this white, it can be summer all year long. Look for the release of the Firestone 2006 Santa Ynez Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, available in November. A hint (4%) of Petit Verdot adds richness to this already abundantly polished red. Skin contact for 28 days and aging for over 22 months in French oak deliver a creamy cassis and sambuca quality—open and round rather than tightly wound, but with structure and tannins, evenly distributed, that prove it will age well. Proof that Cab and its brethren varieties have a home in the Santa Ynez Valley. In its first-ever vintage is the proprietary Bordeaux- blend Firestone 2005 "Lineage" Santa Ynez Valley Estate. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec, a surprising nose of stone fruit (peaches!) greets first, then a remarkable like- ness of a Bordeaux aroma. The mouthfeel dominates the wine with chalky tannins and a gin-like juniper mystique, but there's so much more, and it's quite elegantly stated. www.firestonewine.com Kevin Willenborg enters an Old World– inspired private room at the winery, designed with high beams, wrought iron sconces and Spanish tile. Firestone's Merlot, in the Fruiting Zone. It delivers a structured red, billowing with deep cherry-pome- granate and autumnal elements of cinnamon and clove, a spicy intrigue that gives it life. Round and plumply pillow-textured, the Firestone 2006 Santa Ynez Valley Estate Merlot ends on a creamy note of mocha latte. The Wines