Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/3815
october 2009 / the tasting panel / 39 "The Clay Station fruit is just lovely," explains Hof- mann. "It is a really juicy and lush wine that's got a huge fruit component and a lingering finish that's very differ- ent from the ordinary Lodi Merlot." Hofmann's not ex- aggerating: The 181 bursts with plush tannins and juicy black cherry, stone fruit and currants before lingering on the palate with a long and luxurious finish. Nestled in the Lodi foothills of the Sierra Nevada, Clay Station's distinct soil is a result of eons of runoff from the massive mountains, imbuing the vineyard with a complex miner- ality that also shines through in the wine. The vineyards also boast a very deep layer of red soil that retains water well and keeps cool longer, a factor that benefits the wine by working to offset Merlot's fast-ripening tenden- cies, which can lead to over-ripe fruit. "Clay Station ripens Bordeaux varietals in a way that Napa could only wish for. It's a winemaker's dream to have some nice fruit and a vineyard like this to play around with," says Hofmann. 181 Merlot is also certified sustainable under The Lodi Rules, which are designed to lead to substantial improvements in the environmental health of the area's ecosystem, as well as society at large and overall wine quality. Unlike "do no harm" farming practices that merely dictate which practices should not be used, The Lodi Rules require a wide range of sustainable practices that are certified by Protected Harvest, an environmen- tal non-profit that endorses farmers' use of stringent environmental farming standards. In a world where hybrid cars, reusable grocery bags and solar panels are de rigueur, there's something definitively sexy about environmental responsibility, and if there's one word to describe 181 from harvest to table, it's sexy. "For far too long, Merlot has been characterized as a bland, generic wine," explains Holly Evans, Director of Public Relations for DFV Wines. "People have forgotten how sexy and luscious Merlot can be!" For Hofmann and her team, boosting Merlot's sex appeal with 181 was all about using slow, sul- try techniques to bolster the wine's lush fruit. "I think our winemaking process is sexy too," says the winemaker. "We fer- mented it long and slow to give it a lot of time to develop during fermen- tation, and handled it rather delicately. It is a juicy Merlot and I wanted to bring forward that sexiness, as well as show people that it is some- thing really drinkable and enjoyable on its own." Although it is perfect alone, Hofmann admits that 181 only gets sexier when paired with food, particularly meats. "It's got such a lush finish that just lingers on your throat, but it is lovely with red meat or steaks—and that's just sexy." Sister Act 181 may be a sexy French clone, but it's not the only stunner in the family. 181 joins DFV's 337 Cabernet Sauvignon, which boasts enticing flavors of toffee, black cherry fruit and currant, interlaced with roasted coffee bean and hints of black pepper. Winemaker Sue Hofmann credits the Clay Station vineyards for imbuing both wines with their signature lush richness. "337 and 181 are both Bordeaux varieties that have found fantastic homes in the red clay soils of Clay Sta- tion," she says. "They're both packed with fruit and spice, but have plenty of structure to keep them from becoming one-di- mensional fruit bombs." 181 winemaker Sue Hofmann. october 2009 / the tasting panel / 39 What We're Drinking