Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/3815
As wine country, Colorado has a num- ber of unique challenges and attributes. In general, the state's soil leaves much to be desired. Richard Turley of Colorado Cel- lars calls it "quite simply, awful!" Specifi- cally, soils are alkaline and drought-prone. And not only do the majority of the state's vineyards require carefully monitored ir- rigation in summer, at elevations of 4,000 to 7,000 feet, they're susceptible to hard frosts in both late spring and early fall. "We get a short growing season and a hard dive into winter," comments wine- maker Matt Cookson of the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, who left the luxuries of California's growing climate to make wine in Cañon City, Colorado. Those winters represent another chal- lenge for Colorado winegrowers. Heavy snows mean vines must be planted from rootstock—no grafting shortcuts here. Colorado winemakers must be very com- mitted to the varieties they plant and de- velop an audience for those varietal wines; changing directions frequently to meet the constant flux in consumer taste is not an option. But what makes Colorado difficult also makes the state appealing. As a region to visit, Colorado's wine country is dramatic, breathtaking and ripe for development as a tourist business. The region around the town of Pali- sade, a short drive from Grand Junction, is particularly appealing. Here, grapes are somewhat protected from frost by the surrounding Bookcliff mountain range, a geographical wonder that simply must be seen to be believed. It is an area with enough tasting rooms to make for a wine country destination; many of the region's wineries, including Canyon Wind, Carlson Vineyard and Garfield Estates are among the state's finest. For better or worse, a lot of Colorado's wineries position themselves in tiny microclimates with some of the state's most favorable growing conditions; the wines can be great, but the operations are situated so far off the beaten path that they almost require a plane ride—like the hop we took to Holy Cross Abbey. At the moment, the Colorado industry's biggest challenge is a lack of supply to meet potential national demand. Many Colorado wineries, like the critically lauded Boulder Creek, can sell out to a local fan base. Yet the wineries really can't raise their prices because they don't have the national recognition to boost perceived value. At the moment, Colorado represents some of the better values in American wine, with elegant Merlots, Burgundian Chardonnays and undeniably world-class Rieslings priced from $10 to $20. The wineries are also understandably shy about increasing production beyond what their carefully developed mailing lists will bear, because there tends to be a bit of a misperception among Colora- do's general public. "Colorado natives who have been drinking California wines all their lives tend to think we can't do this in our own backyard," explains the Development Board's Executive Director, Doug Caskey. While the quality of Colorado wine is coming into its own at a world-class level, it is going to take the support of buyers and sommeliers willing to hand-sell these good value wines for Colorado to reach the status the state's wine industry deserves. In the meantime, Colorado wine has to grow and bring in additional experienced talent to maintain or, optimally, continue to improve quality while increasing produc- tion. Most importantly, the locals have to embrace the pioneers who have given the state this valuable agritourism industry. After all, if Rocky Mountain wine isn't embraced at home, why would anyone else want it? Rocky Mountains try PHOTO: LYNNE EPPEL The author sampling a Colorado red wine on site. october 2009 / the tasting panel / 37 PHOTO: DENISE CHAMBERS/WEAVER MULTIMEDIA GROUP, COURTESY OF COLORADO TOURISM OFFICE