Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/35876
CHÂTEAU JULIEN: Monterey County When Château Julien’s 1982 Merlot was selected to be a guest of honor at Ronald Reagan’s White House dinners, the relatively small Carmel, California winery certainly got the world’s attention. According to winemaker Bill Anderson, the Château’s art of fine Merlot production remains defined by “a sense of place.” As a Merlot producer, he says their concept is simple; it’s the execution that can sometimes be chal- lenging. Through trial and error, the winery eventually relocated its growing grounds away from the cool coastal- maritime influences to the Salinas Valley’s far southern reaches, with 95-degree days and relatively cool nights. The art of maximizing hang time for ideal Brix and seed ripeness is fine-tuned through pruning techniques and RUTHERFORD HILL: Napa Valley Rutherford Hill winemaker Marisa Taylor Huffaker is an expert in the nuances of producing Merlot. Château Julien winemaker Bill Anderson samples a developing Merlot. irrigation schedules—along with High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), which provides a surgical monitor- ing and analysis of phenolics for ideal tannin balance and targeted harvest time. Château Julien offers a finely balanced Merlot with deep, dark, rich-red colors and Anderson’s memorable “yummy factor” that just hums along. He credits the optimum ripening effect, without extreme heat, and not over-oaking for providing the “great textures and excel- lent lingering finish.” When we asked Anderson about the winery’s pump-over process, his response was far from technical. He smiled and said, “I absolutely love it, as it’s my oppor- tunity to be nearly immersed in Merlot. I love watching the beautiful rose, purple and red colors splash overhead, and this is also the most intense moment to savor the wine’s deliciously wonderful cherry and raspberry aromatics.” Winemaker Marisa Taylor Huffaker treasures Merlot as a classic varietal with deep historical roots. She says, “I not only respect the grape, I happen to love the wine produced from the fruit.” Huffaker added that in spite of hearing people say that Merlot is passé, “Neither the statistics nor my personal experience support this stance, and our tasting room guests specifically request our Napa Valley Merlot and Reserve Merlot.” Huffaker treasures her good fortune to work at the Terlato family–owned winery and notes she and Tony Terlato are equally passionate about the classic Bordeaux varietal. “Tony and I have endless conversations about the nuances of producing Merlot.” Château Julien’s Private Reserve Merlot is deep and finely balanced. Huffaker sources Merlot throughout Napa Valley, from Carneros to eastern Pope Valley, reaffirming that “an outstand- ing glass of Merlot most definitely starts in the vineyard.” Terlato’s distinctive vineyard sites produce an abundance of cherry and plum fruit flavors backed by a rich, balanced structure—creating an intensely complex Merlot. Huffaker adds, “I strive for a silky, full-flavored Merlot with smooth tannins and lush layers of flavor.” Each vintage, aged 16 months in Terlato’s mile-long caves, produces an expression of flavors that are enhanced by each year’s blending decisions. For example, Huffaker notes, “blending in a little bit of Syrah, or ‘Hermitage,’ adds a richness that supports the wine’s bright aromas.” In spite of Rutherford Hill’s perception as a large winery, she says that her approach is more like a boutique winery. “My relatively small team works with me like a fam- ily—from the vineyard to the cellar.” The Rutherford Hill Reserve Merlot shows the winery’s passion for this classic Bordeaux varietal. july 201 1 / the tasting panel / 45 PHOTO COURTESY OF CHÂTEAU JULIEN PHOTO COURTESY OF TERLATO WINES INTERNATIONAL