The Tasting Panel magazine

JULY 2011

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At the Grand Tasting, other flavorful white blends from the Central Coast included: the Terry Hoage 2009 The Gap Cuvée, a magnificent aromatic pot- pourri of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul Blanc; the Treana 2009 White, a Central Coast blend of Viognier and Marsanne; and Tablas Creek’s fresh, lovely and very affordable new release, the 2010 Patelin de Tablas Blanc, an invigorating combina- tion of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne made entirely with fruit grown at the winery’s estate on the Westside of Paso Robles. Dreamy Wines from Roussillon Another highlight of this year’s HdR weekend was the focus on the white, red and sweet wines from the Roussillon region on the Mediterranean coastal border between France and Spain. Drew Noon (left) of Noon Winery, McLaren Vale, Australia, with John Alban of Alban Vineyards, Arroyo Grande, California. Syrah Is Alive and Kicking From France to South Africa, Australia, California and other exciting regions in the New World, the diversification of flavor profiles of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and other vari- etals used in Rhône-style red blends continue to become more evident. The Qupé 2008 “Sonnie’s” Syrah is the winery’s inaugural release from the biodynamically-farmed Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard in the Edna Valley AVA, San Luis Obispo County. In the words of talented young winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wine Co., “Unlike Napa Cabernet, where the stan- dard of what wine should taste like is so entrenched that any aberration from the norm is nearly universally derided, Syrah comes in a complex array of forms and flavors ready to come at you like a young Sugar Ray Leonard. It keeps you guessing.” California’s White Rhône Blends Another refreshing trend is the new focus on white wine blends. At the “Find Your MoJo” seminar, winemaker Joey Tensley of Santa Barbara County–based Tensley Winery presented his 2010 Camp 4 Blanc, a limited-release blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. “To me there is a charm and satisfaction of making a versatile white wine that packs a very elegant fruit profile, bright natural acidity and a gener- ous finish that works with a wide range of food pairings,” said Tensley. Previously known for its fortified wines and generic table wines that filled the shelves of France’s super- marchés, the style of the region has quickly changed thanks to the arrival of a new cast of maverick winemakers who have recently arrived in the area. Many of these new projects are based in the sub-regions of Maury and Collioure, where it is common to find 50- to 80-year-old Carignane vines and newer clones of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache planted in rugged soils with climate conditions influenced by warm sunny days, evening breezes from the adjacent sea and the stark peaks of the nearby Pyrenees Mountains. Hot brands to look for in the marketplace include Domaine Le Roc de Agnes, Domaine Madeloc, Domaine Thunevin- Calvet (Maury) and Le Clos des Fées. Domaine du Clos des Fées, one of the complex wines made by talented wine- maker Hervé Bizeul, Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC. The Parting of the Pink Sea At the annual Rosé Lunch, the endless sea of dry pink wines provided by the Syndicat AOC Tavel was paired with fine French cuisine prepared by Chef José Dahan of restaurant Et Voilà in San Luis Obispo, California. As evidence of the success of pink wines on a warm day, not a drop was left in any of the bottles poured. HdR’s 20th Anniversary in 2012 While this year’s event was very memorable, it’s worth keeping in mind that next year’s celebration, April 26–28, 2012, will mark the 20-year anniversary of the Hospice du Rhône organization. According to Faith Wells, the official communicator of the HdR team, “It will be a year you don’t want to miss!” For more information, visit www.hospicedurhone.org. july 201 1 / the tasting panel / 107

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