The Tasting Panel magazine

JULY 2011

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SPAIN Takes on Toro I TIM TEICHGRAEBER EXAMINES THE WINES OF BODEGAS FARIÑA n our May issue, we visited Bodegas Fariña in Spain’s Toro region. In 1987, Toro was awarded offi cial Denominación de Origen (D.O.) status, and today is regarded as one of Spain’s elite red wine–growing regions as well as a source of some terrifi c values. The varietal is Tempranillo, locally called Tinto de Toro, often blended with a bit of Garnacha. The local clone of Tempranillo is particularly thick-skinned and aromatic, making wines with intense fruit character and great structure. Here are the latest tasting notes from this premium family wine estate, well known as the founding fathers of the region of Toro. Bodegas Fariña 2004 Gran Dama de Toro, Toro, Spain ($45) Fariña’s fl agship wine is a superb expression of Toro, with a deep core of blackberry and black currant fruit accented with notes of vanilla and tobacco. It’s modern, hearty and delicious with refi ned structure. Made from 80- to 90-year- old Tinto de Toro and Garnacha vines. 92 Bodegas Fariña 2004 Dama de Toro Crianza, Toro, Spain ($16) Aged for eight months in American oak and then for several years in bottle prior to release, this expressive Tempranillo/Garnacha blend has deep plum, raspberry and spice fl avors. Very nice—a fuller expression of Toro, with deep, mouth-fi lling plum, raspberry and spice fl avors with silky, well-integrated tannins. 88 Bodegas Fariña 2008 Barrel Aged Tempranillo, Toro, Spain ($13) Matured for a brief four months in oak, this youthful Tempranillo has deep color typical of Toro, aromas of toast and black fruit and fl avors of mulberry, black currant, clove, limestone and licorice with a sturdy fi nish. Very well-made. 88 Bodegas Fariña 2009 Tempranillo, Toro, Spain ($10) A very modern, clean Toro red that sees no oak. It has fresh cherry, blueberry, brambly blackberry, plum, cocoa, limestone and clay earth fl avors fi nishing with brisk acidity and moderate tannins. 87 Bodegas Fariña 2009 Dama de Toro Malvasia, Toro, Spain ($10) A lovely Toro white made from bush vines up to 100 years old, this Malvasia has concentrated but refreshing green apple, peach, green tea and ginger notes. 85 Bodegas Fariña 2009 Peromato Tempranillo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain ($8) A juicy Tempranillo made to be drunk young, with pretty violet and rose petal aromas and fresh blackberry, clove and pepper notes. A great summer barbecue wine. 86 Bodegas Fariña is imported by Specialty Cellars. 2 / the tasting panel / july 201 1

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