Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/348953
58 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014 Auchentoshan American Oak did this quite markedly. The next course was a Nova Scotia smoked salmon, which was paired with Bowmore Small Batch. Stylistically, this Islay classic was a huge departure from the Lowlands. Prior to tasting both the Small Batch and the salmon, McCallum turned historian, geologist and comedian — which kept every - one rapt during this course. "Bowmore is the oldest distillery on Islay, established in 1779," McCallum said. "The maturation of the whisky actually takes place below sea level — at high tide! Many people are worried about sea levels rising — that in 70-100 years, we might not have Bowmore, or other legendary distilleries on Islay. But, because Scotland is so far north, it was actually once beneath the polar ice cap. So, it's one of the few places that's going through a [post-glacial] rebound. So we shouldn't lose the coastal distilleries. However, where there's a yin, there's a yang: England is sinking into the ocean. We never forgave them for all that tyranny!" (Audience laughter.) McCallum went on to explain the main differences between American and European oak. American oak contains much higher concentrations of oak lactones than European oak and this is reflected in the flavor differences generated during the maturation process. So, American oak produces a stimulation more toward the front of the tongue where you taste sweetness. The Auchentoshan American Oak did this quite markedly. "Islay whisky pairs with other things from the sea as well," McCallum said. "Lobster and any crustaceans are great with it." Just as McCallum made this point, another course arrived — which resulted in perhaps the biggest pleasant surprise (among many) of the night: Raw oysters from Hamma Hamma Farm, Lilliwap, WA, paired with Bowmore 12 Years Old. It was here that the gregarious Johnnie Mundell took the astonished guests through an unforgettable culinary tour: The Bowmore Oyster Luge. "This was actually created by a chef friend I know in Los Angeles," Mundell said. "And understand, I've never liked oysters before. But the company wanted an oyster pairing, and the chef told me: 'Don't think about the oysters, but instead, think about their juice, their brine.' When I took a sip of the brine only, it was truly transformative. So you have the tequila shot mentality, but this is a sexier version." Here's how to do The Bowmore Oyster Luge in four steps: ■ Take a sip of the oyster brine. Get the salinity and sweetness of the water on your palate. ■ Have a tiny sip of Bowmore 12 Years Old. DISHES & DRAMS Auchentoshan American Oak. The minerality and briny nature of the Bowmore Small Batch pairs with the big flavors of smoked salmon.