Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/348953
{ SOMMjournal.com } 1 1 1 fruit; thus microcellars are a formidable segment of the industry. Barely 40 miles north of Stellenbosch, sun-soaked Swartland is a bone-dry agriturismo paradise of wheatfields, olivegroves and vineyards awaiting nearby Capetonians mining for treasures. Despite desert-like conditions, 90% of the producers stick to dry- farming. Low summer rainfall (barely six inches in the dry season) and Atlantic breezes combine to lower disease pressure, while natural shrublands provide refuge for predators that eat vine - yard pests. And since weeds struggle to establish themselves, there's little need for herbicides. Swartland's bushvines yield low tonnage (4–6 tons per hectare, 1.6–2.5 tons per acre), but the grapes are higher quality and more intense. Says Badenhorst, "The lowest yields of any South African region, the least water and the on-average oldest vineyards. Farming is pretty tough." That means you've got to be kind stewards of the land and farm for the future. Hence, Swartland's wines evolve from bedrock to bottle with emphasis on terroir, typicity and non-interventionist winemaking. Fermentation takes place in mature oak or egg- shaped concrete tanks typically followed by maceration in large wooden fudres. With its old school approach, Swartland hardly feels like a new kid on the vineyard block—viticulture began here as early as 1751. "I refuse to label South Africa as New World," says Woodhouse. "Given the history, tradition and natural wine - making, 'New World' doesn't make sense in any narrative about Chenin Blanc from 60-year-old vines," Woodhouse added. Swartland Revolution Akin to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and its iconic black rooster logo, Swartland Independent Producers (SIP) is a con- sortium of 24 members rallied around a gnarled vine, ears of wheat and the Southern Cross, a constellation visible from the Southern Hemisphere. SIP's mission is to hone in on the region's identity and produce wines that convey the terroir's DNA. "Producers are welcome to come here, but please don't grow Sauvignon Blanc," urges Sadie. "We're making deeper, more nuanced wines; we don't want to make swimming pool whites." In SIP's own words, "Swartland Independent is laying down some guidelines for vineyard and cellar practices that will enhance this expression of 'Swartlandness.'" And like the tenets that helped define the stalwart Italian DOCG, SIP's foundational values are outlining the Swartland WO (Wines of Origin) with strict yet evolving standards governing everything from permitted variet - ies to prohibited practices. "It's like a constitution," says Sadie, "it doesn't restrict your living; it protects it." SIP's membership role is a who's-who of top producers, including Mullineux Family Wines, Platter's South African Wine Guide 2014 Winery of the Year. Sadie enrolled Mullineux and other strong characters like Badenhorst, "because if you're going to build an appellation, one star can't be a constellation." Mission to Vinous Clairette Blanche, Roussanne, Viognier and Palomino show up in supporting roles, but Chenin Blanc is the white star, often in blends. Chenin is expressed in Swartland with lots of phenolics, PHOTO: BARTHOLOMEW BROADBENT PHOTO: THINKSTOCK/MAREE LOUW PHOTO: ROBERT JONES, MS A Swartland bushvine. Chris Mullineux in the cellar at Mullineux Family Wines.