The SOMM Journal

August/September 2014

Issue link:

Contents of this Issue


Page 62 of 119

{ }  63 { the view from blue } The Pride of Riquewihr AS STEVEN SPURRIER REMARKS IN HIS excellent column written this month from Alsace (see page 20), "No trip to Alsace is complete with- out a visit to Hugel." True, indeed, but I recently had the pleasure of having Hugel come to me, without requiring a trek to Riquewihr. Jean-Frédéric Hugel—the 13th generation to continue this family enterprise, which was founded in 1639—arrived at my office in June with a selection of the pioneering house's offerings in their unmistakable yellow labels, ranging from the charming multi-varitey cuvée Gentil to the stun - ning Gewurztraminer SGN. Hugel & Fils 2011 Gentil, Alsace ($16) Bright, crisp and aromatic; dry and racy with lovely citrus and peach; long and balanced, fresh and vibrant. 11% Gewurztraminer, 16% Riesling, 18% Pinot Gris, 48% Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc, 7% Muscat. 90 Hugel & Fils 2010 Muscat Tradition, Alsace ($29) Soft rose petal nose; dry, aromatic and savory; nervy, bright and balanced; elegant, com - plex and charming; long and lush on the finish. 90 Hugel & Fils 2011 Pinot Blanc Cuvée Les Amours, Alsace ($18) Smooth, dry and fresh with juicy pear fruit; fresh and bright with minerally notes; long, balanced finish. 88 Hugel & Fils 2011 Pinot Gris Classic, Alsace ($24) Smooth and lush with ripe apricot and good depth; charateristically rounded finish. 88 Hugel & Fils 2012 Riesling, Alsace ($25) Bright lime nose; dry, racy and crisp with lovely citrus and floral notes; elegant and precise; vivid finish that goes on and on. 92 Hugel & Fils 2005 Riesling Jubilee, Alsace ($64) Golden color; spicy nose; juicy and rich with smooth, balanced citrus and melon fruit; elegant and complex, deep and layered; long and luscious. 93 Hugel & Fils 2011 Gewurztraminer, Alsace ($30) Rose petals and spice; dry, smooth and ripe with lovely spice and depth; elegant, lingering fin - ish. 90 Hugel & Fils 2008 Gewurztraminer Jubilee, Alsace ($54) Rose petals in the nose; lush and deep with aromatics and spice; complex and bal - anced with lovely elegance and style; long and rich. 92 Hugel & Fils 2007 Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles "S," Alsace ($280) Rich aro- matic nose; creamy and luscious with deep spice and rich honey; vanilla and intensity; incredibly long and balanced with a core of firm acidity. Stunning. 97 HUGEL & FILS VISITS THE U.S. WITH SUPERB WINES IN TOW Jean-Frédéric Hugel at a Frederick Wildman & Sons tasting. by Anthony Dias Blue

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - August/September 2014