The SOMM Journal

August/September 2014

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Page 35 of 119

36 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014 { planet grape } AT A PRIVATE BEACH CLUB IN RAMATUELLE, UNDER the shade of pine, feet nestled into soft Provençal sand, I learned about wine in the best possible way. I observed a pack of playboys moving in on a bevy of beautiful women who were busy nibbling on seafood and sipping rosé. Nothing unusual here, or was there? Hmm. Wait a minute. The men were drinking pink too. As it turns out, everyone—including the pale, plump, far too scantily clad Northern Europeans—was in on the game. It was just what you drank. Then you took a nap. What a great lesson that was, back on the Côte d'Azur. It made me realize that the French really didn't know so much more about wine than us. They simply drank what everyone else did, when everyone else did. It was summer, it was hot, and you drank rosé. While coral was the color of most wines during Greek and Roman times, Provincia Romana, or today's Provence, is still con - sidered the rosé center of the world. Early Bordeaux, or Clairet, was pink and so was early Californian wine. But it wasn't until a stuck fermentation inspired the semi-sweet rosé of Zinfandel at Sutter Home that this pale beauty got its bad rap. These days, pink wine is taken much more seriously, espe - cially when pressed directly after skin contact. Other pro- duction methods include saignée, or bleeding the tank, and blending white and red grapes, which is allowed and used in Champagne. Rosé wines are still to fully sparkling, bone dry to deca - dently sweet, and are produced all over the world. From light, tart Provençal rosés to full-bodied, varietally-expressive New World choices, it may be time to think about expanding pink wine options beyond the warm summer months. In particular, Rosé Champagnes pair surprisingly well with meaty main courses such as lamb or duck breast. Ken Kobré, Professor of Photojournalism at San Francisco State University and creator of, is releasing a documentary later this year called Rosé Rising. During the filming, I came across several rosés worth noting. Here they are, in categories created for easy placement on your menu. Some are easier to find than others, but they are all worth seeking out. Author Catherine Fallis, MS, with a selection of her favorite rosés. A Rosy Picture IT'S TIME TO THINK ABOUT EXPANDING PINK WINE OPTIONS Note: All prices are SRP. SNAPPY The Seeker 2012 Rosé, Cotes de Provence ($16) Château Routas 2013 Rosé, Coteaux Varois en Provence ($16) Château Minuty 2013 M de Minuty, Côtes de Provence ($20) Château d'Aquéria 2013 Rosé, Tavel ($20) Fox Run Vineyards 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes, New York ($15) Bonny Doon 2013 Vin Gris de Cigare, Central Coast, California ($18) MacPhail 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($22) Hess Collection 2013 Small Block Series Syrah Rosé, Napa Valley ($22) SOFT AND FRUITY M. Chapoutier 2013 Belleruche Rosé, Côtes-du-Rhône ($15) Argus 2012 Rosato, Napa Valley ($18) Everett Ridge 2013 Rosé, Dry Creek Valley ($18) J Vineyards 2013 Vin Gris, Russian River Valley ($20) SOFTLY SWEET SPARKLING Ca'Momi NV Ca'Rosa Frizzante, California ($12) Fizz56 NV Brachetto Spumante, Piemonte ($20) LIGHT DRY SPARKLING Lamberti NV Rosé Spumante, Veneto ($14) Bellenda NV Rosé Spumante Brut, Veneto ($16) RICH DRY SPARKLING Schramsberg 2010 Brut Rosé, North Coast ($43) Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, Napa Valley ($38) Domaine Chandon NV Étoile Brut Rosé, Napa & Sonoma ($50) Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé, Champagne ($48) Pierre Moncuit NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru, Champagne ($50) Taittinger NV Prestige Brut Rosé, Champagne ($80) Vilmart NV Cuvée Rubis Brut Rosé 1er Cru, Champagne ($85) LUXURY DRY SPARKLING Krug NV Brut Rosé, Champagne ($380) by Catherine Fallis, MS PHOTO: KEN KOBRÉ

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