Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/31323
BLUE REVIEWS A Master of Sauvignon Blanc: Pascal Jolivet PASCAL JOLIVET IS ONE of the Loire’s great masters of Sauvignon Blanc. His winery, founded in 1987 and with more than 70 acres spread across Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, has become one of the most dynamic domaines in the region, practic- ing natural winemaking and using environmentally friendly techniques in both the vineyard and the cellar. The domaine supplements its estate holdings with additional fruit sourced from some of the region’s prime terroirs. I sat down with Jolivet recently to taste through the current portfolio. As a longtime fan of Sauvignon Blanc, I was hugely impressed with the current releases, as well as with the talented winemaker behind them. ($24) Smooth and peachy with creamy texture, bright acidity, minerals and spice. All natural yeast. 90 France ($28) Minerals, stone and spice with bright acidity and smooth fruit; juicy, long and fresh. 90 Roy, France ($37) Lush, dense and tangy with lovely acidity and rich texture; smooth, deep and balanced with spice and bright flavors. 91 Pascal Jolivet. vibrant, tangy and focused; long and bracing. Pascal Jolivet 2007 Sancerre Le Chêne Marchand, France ($55) Pure and racy with spice, citrus and minerals; tangy and crisp, juicy and long; intense, precise, elegant and stunning. maturity; leesy, ripe and complex, long and opulent. Pascal Jolivet wines are imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons. 92 93 91 86 / the tasting panel / may 201 1 Pascal Jolivet 2006 Sancerre Sauvage, France ($72) Deep and burnished with rich, dense flavors and some France ($38) From 45-year-old vines; lush, dense and creamy with deep, rich flavors and juicy citrus; long, complex, refreshing and balanced. 91 Pascal Jolivet 2008 Sancerre Chat du Nozay, France ($38) Bright and racy with juicy acidity and lovely minerals; Cabernet Sauvignon & Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy ($9) Smooth, fresh and ripe with plum and wild raspberry fruit; clean, balanced and quite a good value. 87 BANFI VINTNERS Pascal Jolivet 2009 Sancerre Caillottes, 90 Tangent 2009 Albariño, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley ($17) Bright and juicy with lovely aromatics and racy citrus notes; peachy and fresh with minerals and tangy acidity. BAILEYANA Banfi 2008 Col di Sasso Pascal Jolivet 2009 Sancerre Clos du Pascal Jolivet 2009 Pouilly-Fumé, Pascal Jolivet 2009 Sancerre, France VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 88 Salta, Argentina ($15) Lush and ripe with lovely peach, tropical fruits and aromatics; rich and tangy with balance and depth; long and charming. 90 ($15) Susana Balbo creates the definitive version of this charming, aromatic variety; smooth, bright and redolent of peach, apricot and spice with a tangy finish; a terrific wine. 90 VINE CONNECTIONS THE HESS COLLECTION Crios 2010 Torrontès, Salta, Argentina Falernia 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Elqui Valley, Chile ($11) Fresh and juicy with minerals, spice and tangy acidity; zesty and balanced with a long, smooth finish. EMPSON USA/MEADOWBANK ESTATES Bodega Colomé 2010 Torrontès,