Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/31323
WINE BRIEFS The seminar featured a cast of all-star wine professionals: Jeffrey Patterson of Mount Eden Vineyards, Sashi Mormon of Evening Lands Vineyards, wine writer and moderator Ray Isle, Vanessa Wong of Peay Vineyards, Wells Guthrie of Copain Wines and Geoff Kruth, Director of Operations of Guild of Sommeliers and Wine Director at Farmhouse Inn, Forestville, CA. Rajat Parr of Michael Mina and RN74 in San Francisco. In Pursuit of Balance J ust when you thought everything was beautiful and glamorous in the world of Pinot Noir, a technical glitch has been reported. Of course, I’m talking about the new wave of heavy-handed winemaking techniques which create bold Pinot Noirs with over-ripe flavors, too much oak and high levels of alcohol. While many of these high-octane styles appeal to some critics and consumers who enjoy drinking huge wines, most are sharp contrasts to the graceful nature and subtle nuances of wines made from Pinot Noir vines planted in the premier coastal regions of California. In late March in San Francisco, this intriguing topic was explored in detail at California Pinot Noir: In Pursuit of Balance, a special seminar and tasting created by sommelier Rajat Parr of Michael Mina and RN74 restaurants and Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards. The concept was designed to promote wineries that are striving to produce balanced wines made with ultra-premium Pinot Noir grapes grown at extraor- dinary sites. At the event, it didn’t take long to discover that the term “balance” is subject to many interpretations. “To me, balance is a static movement,” said Paul Wilkins, owner/winemaker, Alta Maria Vineyards in Santa Barbara County. “As a fine Pinot Noir ages, it creates reaction and evokes pleasure. It’s a joy to all those involved, from the grower to the winemaker and, in the end, the consumer who drinks the finished product.” Winemaker Ross Cobb of the Sonoma County-based Cobb Wines had a more concise definition. “Be it the lack of fruit, too much oak or the burn you get from too much alcohol, if too many factors are sticking out, then the wine is out of balance.” Some winemakers have learned these lessons over time. 82 / the tasting panel / may 201 1 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR PROVOKES DISCUSSION IN SAN FRANCISCO story and photos by Christopher Sawyer Among them is Wells Guthrie of Copain Wines, one of the panelists at the exclusive seminar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Instead of adding water and acid to adjust the alcohol level and ageability of the wine, in 2006 Guthrie started picking his grapes in Anderson Valley at a lower sugar level. “Our winery is on a continual search to find the magical blend of balance, tension and kinetic energy that influence our wines in a positive way,” said Guthrie. “Today, the wines we make are fresher, brighter and have more depth when they go in the bottle.” Another winemaker, Vanessa Wong of Peay Vineyards, believes it’s critical to balance the amount of structure, acid, tannin and oak to allow the true characteristics of the vineyard to shine through. “Truth is we are not in Burgundy, so we should make wines based on the expressions of each given site,” said Wong. “Clearly, I’m not into making a wine that has a shock value.” Then there’s the continual pursuit: taking advantage of what Mother Nature has to give during each vintage. “From a grower’s perspective, we need to remember this is the New World. It’s taken 20 to 30 years to achieve balance, and it will take generations to find out a site’s real potential,” said David Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyard, an isolated site on the northwest- ern tip of the Sonoma Coast appellation. “Getting married to your site is a very long process!” Finally, from a consumer’s perspective, there’s the simple opinion from Jeffery Paterson, winemaker/owner of Mount Eden Vineyards: “When the last glass is better than the first glass that tells it all!” Sommelier Christopher Sawyer’s tasting notes on wines at In Pursuit of Balance are available at www.tastingpanelmag.com.