The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2011

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Tablas Creek The Vines: With its famed founders, the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and importer Robert Haas, Tablas Creek has become one of the leaders in Paso Robles’s growth and rising celebrity in the world wine arena. This is California estate-grown Rhônes at the top of its game. The hillsides of the Las Tablas district in west Paso are similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s limestone soils and rugged terrain. The Wine: The first-ever non-estate release from Tablas Creek is Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2010 (SRP $20) which blends Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne. “We intro- duced Grenache Blanc to California in 1992,” Jason Haas points out, “and it thrived.” A red version of Patelin, which is French for “country neighborhood,” is coming this fall. Fresh, crisp and bright: all the adjectives you want — and expect — from this tropical-mineral easy-drink- ing gem. Clavo Cellars The Vines: Sustainable farming is a notable factor in the award-winning wines from this boutique winery, which among other noteworthy features, houses owls for pest control. New concrete fermenters were installed at the winery to soften the texture of the wines and bring out minerality. An increase in produc- tion of intriguing varietals such as Vermentino and Albariño also sets Clavo apart. The Wine: Clavo Cellars 2008 Dreamer (SRP $32) is a teeth-coating single-vineyard Petite Sirah from the breezy Templeton Gap, aged for 24 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels. Texture like this—a combination of gritty and juicy—makes for a concentrated wine with plenty of blackberries to last through the finish. Leather and a hint of tobacco give it a more serious side. Neil Roberts is the man behind Clavo Cellars. Ortman Family Vineyards The Vines: When Chuck Ortman sold Meridian to Beringer, he began his own winery. Once known as “Mr. Chardonnay,” Ortman broke tradition and started developing Pinot Noir. But Paso Robles’s terroir has him moving in Rhône circles these days, and he has set up shop with a tasting room in downtown Paso. The Wine: Chuck’s son Matt Ortman tasted us on the Ortman Family Vineyards 2007 Cuvée Eddy (SRP $20), a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah. “It’s our Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday wine,” he explained. “Also a great match with tri-tip.” 96 / the tasting panel / april 201 1 Lone Madrone The Vines: Small and boutique-y, Lone Madrone prides itself on its dry-farmed, head-trained organi- cally grown Westside fruit. Winemaker Neil Collins believes that when you begin with grapes from vineyards of high caliber in what he calls “outrageous soils,” it only makes sense to “let them sing for themselves without being masked by our hand.” The Wine: The fruit for Lone Madrone 2007 Bailey Ranch Zinfandel (SRP $33) is sourced from certified organic grapes grown off Peachy Canyon Road. An earthy nose leads to fragrant and ripe blueberry and blackberry. Spiced with elegance in a deep, brood- ing and dusty finish that tastes like pressed roses.

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