Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/29638
“This must be the fairest cape of them all.” —Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, on discovering the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, circa 1488 By the time Peter Koff left South Africa in 1988, he was already immersed in wine knowledge, armed with the certi- fi cation of Cape Wine Master (CWM), a program based on a thorough education in the wines from his native country. Involved in the tech industry, Koff decided to study for his Master of Wine (MW) here in the States. He earned his degree, joining an elite few who hold this prestigious title. Perhaps it was that extra boost that allowed him to realize the corporate environment was not his path. “So I selected wine,” he tells THE TASTING PANEL at a recent portfolio tasting at The Thompson Hotel in Beverly Hills. In 1992, he had his fi rst container shipped in from the Cape. “At the time, there were only two of us importing wines from South Africa. The embargo was lifted a mere three weeks later.” Koff was the only salesperson for his newly formed company, Fairest Cape Imports, traveling the entire U.S.—and hitting a few walls, including some buyers who asked in disbelief, “They’re producing wine in Africa? No %$&!” From an original portfolio consisting solely of South African imports to a current line of emerging wines from Italy, France, New Zealand, Argentina, Spain and the U.S., Fairest Cape Beverages, as the company is known today, is proud of its credo: “Best of genre, great prices!” Koff continually circles the globe tasting wines in order to source great offerings at great value. “We want to deliver the same qualities and technical pleasures and benefi ts as the high-priced counterparts,” Koff claims. For him, “technical pleasure” refers to the wines’ structure, fruit and/or mineral components—that is, the factors that really count, even if his fairly-priced bottles don’t necessarily offer the “emotional satisfaction of drinking a Château Pétrus, for example.” While Fairest Cape enjoys national distribution for its wines from South Africa and Italy, the remainder of the port- folio is concentrated in the California and Nevada markets. We met with Koff and Arno Gelderbloem to taste just a sampling of Fairest Cape’s international offerings. Here are notes on some of our favorites. Champagne Chevalier Fabré NV Brut Champagne, France A blend of 50% Pinot Meunier, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Chardonnay sourced from 30 different crus throughout Champagne. Due to its slightly higher dosage, this light, softly bubbled beauty is redolent with sweet honey-citrus and whole wheat bready character. Vinifi ed without ML. Only 250 cases. SRP $29 PORTFOLIO TASTING Domaine des Malandes 2008 Chablis Vieilles Vignes, France The magnifi cent aromas burst through with ripe pear and vanilla wafers. The minerality is but a slight hint of clay and stone. SRP $26 VillIera Estate 2010 “Down to Earth,” Stellenbosch, South Africa Vibrant, zingy asparagus backed by citrus, green peppercorns and wet pebbles make this Sauv Blanc/Semillon blend a stand-out and one you won’t forget in a sea of whites. “We love Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa,” insists Peter Koff; “we’re not afraid of its overt character. However, Semillon is our secret ingredi- ent, which lifts [up the base notes of] the other grape.” SRP $14 Delheim 2010 Pinotage Rosé, South Africa A big name in S.A. wine, Delheim creates a big-fl avored yet delicately crafted rosé with rose petals, raspberries and the most subtle dusting of miner- als. “What I look for is elegance and complexity,” Koff says. “I’ll trade that for power and punch anytime.” SRP $15 Cristom Vineyards, 2008 Pinot Noir Mt. Je≠ erson Cuvée, Oregon The majority of this delectable fruit comes from the Eola-Amity Hills appellation and, aged for a year in French oak, displays what we can only describe as the sweet side of satin. Strawberry and Bing cherry—and a noticeable absence of the earth that some may associate with Oregon—take this Pinot to the next level for us. The creamy vanilla texture and taste seals the deal. SRP $26 Boland Cellars 2010 Pinotage “cap- pupino ccinotage,” Paarl, South Africa Nicknamed an “undercover Pinotage” by Fairest Cape’s Arno Gelderbloem, this coffee-stylized red combines the buoyancy of a Pinot Noir and the grilled meatiness of a Syrah. Guided by a hand- ful of juicy strawberry, it’s backed up by a triple espresso mocha latte. A superb by-the-glass selection. SRP $15 Fattoria Buccicatino 2000 “Stilla Rubra,” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C., Italy Its earthy, mushroom-y nose and fl avor profi le reminds us of a rich collector’s wine cellar. Old World brood- ing, long notes linger without any harsh tannins. Ripe and raisiny. SRP $32 www.fairestcape.net april 201 1 / the tasting panel / 81