The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2011

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TERROIR Los Angeles A Lola Duck with Confit Turnips, Passata Sauce, Pomegranate, Red Quinoa paired with Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2007 and 1996 t Akasha, a Culver City-area restaurant touting organic, locally- sourced foods, the option of smelling and possibly tasting dirt felt like a natural occurrence. But it was the enticing opportunity to sniff the aromas of the soils that was so cleverly exciting for a pack of Southern California journalists who, jaded when it comes to the run-of-the-mill wine dinner, had something new to experience. “Our invitees get to do what we, as winemakers, do all day long: smell the soil,” noted Robert Mondavi Director of Winemaking Genevieve Janssens. “That part of our job is of paramount importance.” Sniffing and swirling the famed To Kalon dirt, mixed with a splash of water, I experienced sweet garden peas, dried fruit and clay. Not to say that is what you taste when you sip Robert Mondavi “I” Block Fumé Blanc, a barely 200-case production of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in North America, but I did get sweet pea, along with lemon verbena and a distinct clay minerality, despite the barrel fermenta- tion and oak aging. The taste of place exercise was rewarded by the well-paired dishes at Akasha, where ingredients from small family farm producers and artisan food makers shine even more now that I can picture them tilling the soil. —Meridith May We found new perspec- tive in the already famed Robert Mondavi “I” Block Sauvignon Blanc. Robert Mondavi Director of Winemaking Genevieve Janssens explains the signifi- cance of the To Kalon wines and vineyard. James Beard Award–nominated owner (Hearth & Terroir restaurants) and Wine Director Paul Grieco At Akasha restaurant,THE TASTING PANEL’S Meridith May and Richard Carleton Hacker get an understanding of sniffing and swirling soil-turned-mud. april 201 1 / the tasting panel / 71 PHOTO: MARIA SCHRIBER PHOTO: MARIA SCHRIBER PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG

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