Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/29638
In 2004, as the Gotts began to have children (their brood now totals three), they became not only family-focused but family-business-focused. Sarah joined Joel Gott Wines full-bore, resulting in an indefatigable winemaking team. Much about their business reflects a family-themed approach—even their offices in St. Helena are a converted home with a lab fashioned from the vestiges of a living room. Moreover, the additional talent that surrounds them shares a jovial, sibling- like camaraderie. Taunts and jokes abound while serious work blending their critically lauded Cabernet, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Riesling takes place in the homey premises. Joel Gott Wines sources grapes from all over California, with an emphasis on Amador, Lodi, Monterey, Napa and SSonoma County’s Knights Valley and Russian River Valley for certain lines. (Their Riesling hails from Columbia Valley in Washington State.) They’re also keen on blending the best California has to offer. “My passion for it really took because it wasn’t like ‘Okay, you have one wine and one vineyard to work with, which is a great thing, but I’m really not a huge estate person,” opines Gott, who adds, “I think there are some incredible estate wines but what’s to say it’s not better if you blended something else into it? That’s what I think we do here best with our team: We create wines from all over California and we’re able to do that and deliver at our price point because we make blending our priority.” Indeed, most Joel Gott Wines retail for between $15 and $20, yet, their consistent excellence has made them rivals of many wines at higher price points. “Yes, we work in the vineyard and we do all of that but we’re also here with our team tweaking and seeing what else we can do, because we’re not necessar- ily tied to Napa and having a higher price point,” says Gott, who puts an emphasis on “over-delivering.” Gott endeavors to create wines that find balance and elegance through the blending process that are characteris- tically nuanced and subtle, sidestepping the “cherry bomb” trend of super-fruity Cabs, which often come with higher alcohol levels. “I do feel that the pendulum may be swinging back a bit. There are so many good wines out there that may not get the credit they deserve because they’re not pushing the envelope,” Gott says, then laughs, “I’m not sure where the envelope goes. Clearly, you don’t want to be completely oblivious, but you do want to develop that good quality and balance, that refinement that we’re hoping people enjoy.” Moreover, the quality of her wine and its relatively afford- able price has left Joel Gott Wines well positioned during the economic downturn. Those who formerly wouldn’t think twice about a $40 or even $60 bottle have grown more circumspect about their spending, yet seek a comparable experience. “They’re buying our wine for $20 and they’re happy,” says Gott. Joel Gott Wines are marketed and sold by Trinchero Family Estates, a relationship that has helped the Gotts reach a wide market without losing autonomy or control Winemaker Sarah Gott traded veterinary studies for winemaking. over the product. This is particularly important when one’s name is on the bottle—a fact that has become almost completely abstracted to Joel, who also is a co-creator of the Three Thieves brand and has interests in several food-themed ventures, including the iconic Gott’s Roadside eateries. He comfortably speaks of his namesake brand as if its name were a random collection of phonemes. Though the Gotts have worked together on the brand since its inception, Sarah’s main employers at the time would have perceived having her name on the bottle as a conflict of interest. Besides, she isn’t remotely interested in being the face of the family enterprise. “Joel can do the talk and do the dog-and-pony show; I would much rather come and do this and then go home to the kids and not have to be out doing winemaker dinners and stuff,” she says with a laugh. The family’s business and their personal lives often overlap, and that’s how they like it. “The business is such a part of our life, that I don’t see any difference between the two,” Joel observes. To wit, the duo has dubbed their top-tier product simply “Gott.” As Joel makes abundantly clear, theirs is a family business, not the “Joel Gott” business. “It’s family for sure,” he affirms. “Honestly after 15 years of having the label, it just seems like it’s a brand, there’s ‘Joel Gott’ and there’s Joel Gott—and fortunately, I know the difference between the two.” april 201 1 / the tasting panel / 69