Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/29638
BLUE REVIEWS Larger Than Life Sbragia Family Vineyards Continues A Family Tradition ED SBRAGIA ADMITS that he has “one foot in Sonoma and the other in Napa.” As Winemaker Emeritus at Beringer, where he made wines for more than 30 years, Ed obvi- ously feels strong attachments to Napa Valley. But he also owns five vineyards on the east side of Dry Creek, and he has raised his family in Sonoma wine country. Ed inherited the family vineyards— and at least some of his winemaking skills—from his father, Gino Sbragia, a former employee at Italian Swiss Colony and later a winemaker, fruit and grape farmer. In true family style, Ed’s son Adam now makes the Sbragia Family wines with him, while other family members work in the cellar, the vineyards and the tasting room. Although the wines are marketed by Treasury Wine Estates, Beringer’s parent company, there is nothing corporate or impersonal about the Sbragia Family portfolio—these are intense, massively-styled wines, sourced from both Napa and Sonoma. Like Ed himself, they are larger than life. Ed Sbragia. Sbragia Family Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay, Gamble Ranch, Napa Valley ($40) Dense and creamy with sweet oak and ripe fruit; vanilla and lush texture; long, rich and balanced with depth and style. black raspberry, cherry and earth; supple and spicy with tangy acidity and beautifully knit flavors; lush and big but in lovely balance and with a long, rich finish. 91 90 92 cherry, black raspberry, astonishing licorice and vanilla—all come together in this remarkable wine; mellow toasty oak and supple texture lead to a long finish that brings out tea and floral notes; unique and exciting. 93 95 96 Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wall Vineyard, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder ($75) Rich and explosive with deep flavors of black raspberry, cassis and plum with minerals and licorice nuance; supple, toasted and floral with great intensity and lovely balance; stunning. Sbragia Family Vineyards wines are marketed by Treasury Wine Estates. 58 / the tasting panel / april 201 1 Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cimarossa Vineyard, Napa Valley ($75) Bright and racy with complex wild berry fruit and juicy acidity; big, complex and neatly balanced; rich and layered; toasty with lovely texture and a long, focused finish. Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rancho del Oso Vineyard, Napa Valley, Howell Moutain ($75) Black Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Andolsen Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley ($35) Dark and ripe with plum, cassis and spice; smooth, rich, balanced and long with style and depth. Sbragia Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley ($50) Smooth and velvety with 90 Gräfenberg, Rheingau, Germany ($48) Exquisite floral nose; juicy, fresh and creamy with lovely sweetness balanced by searing acidity that creates a wine with lovely tension and nerve; pure, elegant and complex with great depth and stunning flavors. Wow! 94 90 Cortona, Italy ($50) Smooth and fresh with bright plum and raspberry fruit; juicy and racy with tangy flavors and unremitting charm; balanced, lively and long. PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL 92 Mormoreto, Toscana, Italy ($65) Dark, lush and velvety with lovely plum, cassis, black raspberry and spice; juicy and smooth with tangy acid structure and notes of oak, vanilla and licorice; rich and beautifully constructed from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cab Franc and 3% Petit Verdot; exquisite. FOLIO FINE WINE PARTNERS 95 smooth with soft vanilla and clean, sleek texture; nicely balanced and elegant with a soft slightly short finish. VISION WINE & SPIRITS SPIRITS 90 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2006 Castello di Nipozzano LOOSEN BROS. USA Miguel Torres 2007 Salmos, Priorat, Spain ($37) Silky and tangy with pure, juicy black raspberry and spice; edgy and fresh with balance and good length. DREYFUS ASHBY Poliziano 2006 Merlot, In Violas, Mendel 2010 Semillon, Mendoza, Argentina ($25) Fresh and ripe with juicy acidity and clean citrus fruit; silky, long and pure with balance and a long, lovely finish. VINE CONNECTIONS Robert Weil 2008 Riesling Spätlese, Kiedrich Americana Vodka ($22) Silky and PHOTO COURTESY OF SBRAGIA FAMILY VINEYARDS