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DEPARTMENT HEADER Katherine and Claude Blankiet in their home in Yountville, CA. Blankiet, whose first eight vintages were made by Helen Turley, followed by Martha McClellan-Levy for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages, with assistance from world-renowned consulting enologist Michel Rolland. Since 2009, former Château Latour maître de chai Denis Malbec has served as winemaker. Moreover, acclaimed viticulturist David Abreu has overseen the development of 16 of 46 acres of vineyards, whimsi- cally dubbed “Paradise Hills.” Throughout the volcanic soils are planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with Merlot taking up residence in a layer of alluvial clay left by the naturally drainage of streams running from the mountain range. The combination of terroir, talent and technology (all vinification is conducted on-site using state-of-the-art equipment) results in palate-pleasing wines of expressive and complex char- acter. (The 2007 Paradise Hills Vineyard Proprietary Red is of particular note, not least for its impressive notes of dark mocha, dark coffee, black currant and a quiet minerality). “In my industry before, I was the link between designers and chemists. Those people usually don’t talk to each other— they use different parts of the brain,” says Blankiet. “For whatever reason, I was able to navigate those two worlds and be comfortable in either one. I can hopefully do it now between the farmers and people who work the land and the people who make the technology, which is quite innovative in America.” Blankiet is no slouch himself when it comes to innovation. Among his accomplishments are a technique for decolorizing indigo in denim processing by means of ozone—an oxygen-based gas that he now uses to fend off mold, bacteria and fruit flies. Likewise, he developed a “fingerprint- ing” system to authenticate fine wines and prevent fraud via “bubble tags.” Blankiet has also experimented with rosé production by using the juice bled from his 2006 harvest and fermenting it in new French oak barrels; the results garnered critical plaudits. Blankiet describes himself as an “instigator” when it comes to working with his team. “I was always questioning, ‘What if? What if?’ Some winemakers like that, some winemakers do not,” he laughs. “Some winemakers and viticulturalists are very enthusiastic about my approach of trying new things.” Though Blankiet Estate has produced more wine in years past, now Blankiet prefers doing smaller case releases (often less than a thousand cases of its flagship proprietary red a year) and enjoys the support of a loyal list of wine club members. “In spite of the stressful situations that you have sometimes because of weather or pests in the vineyard, learn- ing to work with nature had definitely been rewarding for us,” says Blankiet. “You have to try to have fun and believe in what you’re doing. That’s the approach we try to have here. We don’t make a lot of wine—but that’s what it takes to do it right.” www.blankiet.com april 201 1 / the tasting panel / 109