The Tasting Panel magazine

March 2014

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march 2014 / the tasting panel / 53 makes it an appealing option behind the bar, but he cautions that its subtle flavors shine through best when it's mingled with just a few other ingredi- ents. The Irish Mule, for example, pours it simply with ginger beer and lime. Mention Irish whiskey, and many consumers will immediately think of Jameson; the brand does account for an impressive 77% of the category. Traditional Jameson is joined by other variants including 12 Year Old, Gold, 18 Year Old and Jameson Black Barrel. The latter is aged in charred oak barrels, lending it vanilla notes—and comparison to a popular American whiskey. "Jameson Black Barrel is a great segue into the category for the bourbon drinker," notes Di Vito, perfect for sipping neat, with water or on the rocks, or as a bourbon substitute in an Old Fashioned or Manhattan. In contrast to Jameson, which is a blend of continuous still and pot still whiskies, Redbreast is a single pot still whiskey. "It is similar to a single malt Scotch, with lots of layers and complex- ity," Di Vito explains, designed for sipping neat to truly appreciate its nuances. Pernod Ricard recently launched PADDY Devil's Apple (with flavors of cinnamon and apple) and the sweet, honey-based PADDY Bee Sting; both have proven to be popular shot options for fans of flavored spirits. St. Patrick's Day still seems an uptick in sales of the category, but many are surprised to discover that March is no longer the most popular time of the year for Irish whiskey. For the past several years, peak sales have occurred in November and December, when consumers are celebrating the holidays with friends and family—and also looking for that perfect holiday gift for a whiskey fan. "Irish whiskey was perfectly posi- tioned as a category when consumers were looking for something new," says Di Vito. Over the years, Pernod Ricard has shown a staunch commitment to the success of all of its Irish whiskey brands, and has invested in and supported those who support the category, he adds. He is certain about Irish whiskey's bright future, and invites fans and willing would-be converts alike along for the ride. "We're only getting started." The name of this New York bar, launched in February 2013, refers to a local 19th-century gang run by Irish bare-knuckle boxer John Morrissey. So it's not surprising that the bars on the three floors of The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog pour a lot of Irish whiskey. Indeed, the lower Manhattan bar, which won the Spirited Awards for World's Best New Cocktail Bar and World's Best Cocktail Menu at Tales of the Cocktail 2013, is a major champion of the cause, with more than 70 kinds of Irish whiskey on the backbar. "Every other category, from Scotch to mezcal, has had its glory moment," notes Bar Manager Jack McGarry (who snagged his own Spirited Award at Tales last year for International Bartender of the Year). "Irish whiskey has not yet been given the credit it deserves." To that end, The Dead Rabbit recently released a new cocktail menu to coincide with the bar's one-year anniversary (which coincides with Morrissey's birthday). The revamped drinks list boasts 40 Irish whiskey libations for all kinds of palates. "I wanted to make sure we had drinks that were accessible to all typologies of cocktail drinkers, from the novice to the connoisseur," says McGarry. The light and refreshing Downtowner, with Powers Original Irish Whiskey, litchi and elderflower liqueurs, lime, jasmine, basil and several kinds of bitters, is aimed at the former. The spicy Thunderbolt, with Powers John Lane Irish Whiskey, crème de banane, ginger liqueur, pimento dram and bitters, appeals to more seasoned fans of the category. All the Irish whiskey–based sips on the new menu are designed to show- case the spirit's versatility. Ninety percent of Irish whiskey sold at The Dead Rabbit is in cocktails; McGarry tends to reach for blended versions such as versatile Jameson for shaken drinks, and the multi-dimensional Redbreast for stirred ones. Staff helps guests see beyond the shot by offering flights, and by making spirited suggestions based on what they typically drink. "This menu celebrates Irish whiskey," muses McGarry, whose goal for the new drinks program is to restore the spirit to the popularity it garnered in the 19th century, giving Irish whiskey its own moment to shine. At NYC's Dead Rabbit, Irish Whiskey Is in Their Blood At New York City's The Dead Rabbit, Redbreast 12 Year Old Irish Whiskey is used in complex stirred drinks such as the historic À la Taylor, which dates from 1869 and also includes gentian liqueur, clementine sherbet, fresh clementine juice, fresh lemon juice, tamarind nectar and Assam tea.

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