Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/26650
Terry Hoage Vineyards: Extra Points O n a picture-postcard property in the Westside’s Templeton Gap is Terry Hoage Vineyards. While Terry’s career spanned 13 years in the NFL and wife Jennifer’s background is as food and wine editor for New Orleans Magazine, their life is now devoted to 26 acres of 100% organically farmed land in Paso Robles. Seventeen of those acres are planted to vine. From the old Iowa “American Gothic” farmhouse redux, to his own ver- sion of a working wine press, Hoage designed every aspect of the property. Jennifer is a “super taster,” according to Terry, who boasts of his wife’s preternatural palate when it comes to winemaking. While they garnered the concept for wines of distinction from Justin Smith of Saxum (who made the wines for the Hoages during the first two vintages—2002 and 2003—and consulted in 2004), it was Terry and Jennifer who took over the process for the 2005 harvest and beyond. “We have a minimalist approach to winemaking,” explains Terry, who believes that the fruit “should be what it wants to be.” The Terry Hoage 2007 Syrah “The Hedge” is big and unboastfully beauti- ful. White pepper smatters a line-up of extracted wild blackberry, while sliding-on-your-tongue chocolate adds texture. Magnum Force. Ex–defensive back Terry Hoage tackles his wife Jennifer to recover the magnum. While the names of many of the wines are football references, Hoage insists that he doesn’t want to talk about the sport. “I didn’t think people would take a football player seriously,” the ex–defensive back admits. “But we went round and round on the name of the winery, and once we commit- ted [to my name] we thought we would just embrace it and have fun with the label. My fear was that we would be thought of as a couple that just threw a bunch of money around to have a winery, but we farm it ourselves and make the wine. This is an expression of us, our terroir and what [little] we do to the fruit. Ultimately, we are blessed by nature.” Awe-inspiring elegance creates a sailing excursion of cinnamon brown sugar satin. Sweet cherries and cake batter add texture to this Terry Hoage Grenache/Syrah, called “The 46” in homage to NFL football coach Buddy Ryan, who built his reputation as a defensive specialist and was largely credited with implementing and perfecting the 46 defense. Coincidentally, it also refers to the main highway that runs east and west through Paso Robles. Écluse: Old World Inspiration É cluse is the French term for a lock on a canal, like the ones that wind through French wine country—a fitting name for the label owned by Steve and Pam Lock. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel are the mainstays of this boutique winery, with a good variety of soil types to choose from. Beginning as growers, the Locks pay close attention to the nearly 25,000 vines grown on the property. The wines display a totally different character from the labels mentioned earlier in this story. But the appeal of their Old World acidity and texture, combined with density of layered fruit, makes Écluse one to watch. 90 / the tasting panel / march 201 1 Pam and Steve Lock of Écluse Wines. The unique blend of Syrah and Zinfandel make the Écluse 2007 “Improv” so interest- ing. Both varietals are distinctly showcased: a berry and earth combi- nation of that ol’ Paso Robles rustic earthiness. PHOTO: ROB BROWN PHOTO: ROB BROWN