Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/26650
someone had a bright idea and moved me into marketing.” The idea was brilliant, as Tobin James is all personality. And realiz- ing that, James knew he could “personality” his way into his own wine label. “If you’re going on the road, make sure people remember you,” is his philosophy. As to the naughty boy reputation, no one in Paso disputes it. “We did things our way,” James says, noting that on any given weekend, 600 wine fans converge on the Tobin James tasting room, where line dancing and hootin’ and hollerin’ are an anytime occurrence, proving that the party is here to stay. Eberle winemaker Ben Mayo with the 2008 Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah, which we deem a shiny penny of rich, bright rhubarb and earth. Eberle calls it “blueberries and blood”—a combination of components of sliced raw, sweet sirloin and opulent fruit. first winery, now Meridian]. But he did hire me full time after the 1980 harvest,” insists James. “I worked my way up to managing the barrel room, but then “Napa had a 40-year head start, but I always knew Paso’s potential,” comments James, who was the founding winemaker at Peachy Canyon before he started his own label. “But the sun is the number-one winemaker here,” he explains of the region’s extended growing season and long, warm days. “I call the character in my wines liquid sunshine.” Sir Syrah Gary Eberle planted Syrah in 1980 on the Steinbeck Vineyard in Paso Robles, the sixth-largest Syrah vineyard in the U.S. He was also the first to bring the variety to Paso Robles. A proud grower and winery owner, Eberle headed up his family’s Estrella River Winery and produced 500,000 cases a year at its facility. In 1980, he co- founded the Paso Robles Appellation, and in 1983, premiered the Eberle 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon. He is currently producing about 25,000 cases grown on several properties surrounding his estate winery. Eberle’s fondness for Sangiovese (planting it for the past 12 years) and Barbera (planting since the ‘70s) give him an edge for understanding these Italian varieties’ best character. But per- haps it is his Syrah, Viognier and other varietals from the South of France that have proven style and substance—and which have played a pivotal role in determining Paso Robles as the home of New World Rhône. The 2007 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon, soon to be released, is awash with sweet wild cherries and full-bodied bittersweet chocolate and cassis. Eberle noted it is the best wine ever made from his label. “We did things 88 / the tasting panel / march 201 1 our way” – Tobin James