The Tasting Panel magazine

W e first met Franz Hajnal—maestro tequilero, the teacher of all tequila teachers—at East West Lounge in West Hollywood in late July. Hajnal flew in from Mexico to taste us on the soon-to-be-re- leased end-all super-premium tequilas from the Jose Cuervo family. "As a company and as a family, Jose Cuervo has lived through 250 years of Mexican history and cul- ture," explains Araceli Ramos Rosaldo, Public Relations Director for the brand, who accompanied Hajnal from Mexico. "Jose Cuervo was Jose Cuervo before Mexico was Mexico." A blend of reservas from five to 20 years, plus a hid- den stash of 100-year-old cellared and bottle-aged blanco tequila, the final melded liquid was aged in American oak and Spanish sherry casks. "This is extraordinary," comments Trip Wilmot, Presi- dent of East West Lounge, our host for the tasting. Don't worry about your staff dipping in: each box con- taining the two-and-a-half-century-old anniversary edi- tion comes with lock and key. Read the review on page 60. California Goes Italian at Palmina C hrystal Seals Clifton's studies at the University of Bologna and her fluent Italian would eventu- ally guide her husband Steve Clifton's deci- sion to make Italian style wines on California's Central Coast. Her relationships with Italian producers proved insightful in developing the philosophy behind the couple's Palmina label. (Steve Clifton also partners with Greg Brewer to produce Burgundian varietals from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA under the Brewer-Clifton label.) Palmina's prolific portfolio includes 17 wines from Santa Barbara County, including Barbera, Malvasia Bianca, Arneis and Tocai Fruilano, and focusing on a notoriously difficult grape: Nebbiolo. The Palmina Neb- biolo program is intensely and meticulously researched; the Palmina Nebbiolo is allowed to develop fully on the vine, exhibiting earthy ripeness with tight-rope acidity. "We are not trying to emulate Italian versions of these grapes, but rather adapt the styles to the grow- ing conditions, the vineyard sites and the very unique characteristics of Santa Barbara County," explains Chrystal. "The wines are Italian by tradition and mod- ern by design, and all are designed to be an 'extension of the plate'." While she explains how the climate and soil types in Santa Barbara County are similar to those in her "ad- opted Northern Italy," she does not want the Palmina wines categorized as 'Cal-Ital.' "We are not making wines in a big California style. Palmina wines are made in a delicate manner that al- lows them to be paired with food. Our dedication to these wines is to handle them all separately, without any formula." 18 / the tasting panel / september 2009 The Message Chrystal Clifton of Palmina. Cuervo 250 is a Maestro-Piece Trip Wilmot, President of East West Lounge in West Holly- wood, CA, takes a sip from the second bottle ever opened of Jose Cuervo's 250 Aniversario extra-aged tequila, valued at $2,250.

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