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by the Sante Fe Farmers Market Institute, with an agenda that includes education and representation of sustainable farming and farmers. You might not expect "organic and local" to be integral to dining in the state where nuclear bombs were first tested, but in Sante Fe you'd be hard-pressed to find a restaurant that doesn't offer it. And with more than 350 restaurants in a town of 68,000 people, only the best survive. Down- town, an elegant dinner at the Rose- wood Inn of the Anasazi—old-school elegance with a modern expression— included wild sea bass and a to-die- for seafood risotto. Blue Corn has been the choice for years for killer margaritas, spicy chile relleno and the ubiquitous green chile. Il Piatto Ital- ian Farmhouse Kitchen serves Harris Ranch beef, free-range organic chicken, wild-caught fish, and homemade cheeses, sausages and pasta. Desserts ranging from zabaglione to cheesecake (please take it away from me!) are guaranteed to fuel you for outdoor activities in and around this atmospheric adobe town that reputedly has the cleanest air in the country. Before you head to the slopes there are several other don't miss highlights. Along one side of the central Plaza, generations of Native American artists have spread their artisan-certified wares for tourists to buy. Stop for a chat; prices are reasonable and most are happy to share their process and culture. You could spend days ex- ploring the New Mexico Histo- ry Museum. I saw an interesting exhibit of all-things-cowboy, and the well-annotated per- manent exhibit includes trans- parent flooring in the Palace of the Governors to allow viewing of artifacts below. Likewise, the Georgia O'Keefe Museum, which displays its 1100-painting collection in rotation, is a must- see for fans of her evocative art- work. Scenic Canyon Road boasts more art galleries than some large cities, as well as a serious- ly fun dance spot, El Farol. We danced to the eclectic, bluesy sounds of Gruve and laughed ourselves silly on a single shot of Fireball; good company and good music are more intoxicating than alcohol. For a more laidback dance experience and nightly live music, try local favorite Cowgirl at the Railyard. ere's no shortage of inviting hotel spas here but the pièce de résistance is Ten ousand Waves, a mountaintop Japanese-themed soaking and healing spa just a few miles from the Plaza. Communal and private tubs are set to a com- fortable 104°, and the daring can interrupt the heat with a quick icy plunge. You won't be sorry if you follow your soak with a healing massage. Finally, if you're lucky enough to be in Sante Fe for WinterBrew (lo- cal cra beers), as we were, or the eight-week music fest, opera season, Las Posadas (Christmas reenactment) or any of a doz- en other festivals, you'll start wondering if you really have to go home. HEAD FOR THE HILLS Outdoor enthusiasts needn't go far for a workout. A somewhat tortuous 45-minute drive will take you to Ski Santa Fe, where you can enjoy not just great skiing and boarding, but also spectacular views of the entire valley. It's worth a trip up the mountain even if you don't ski, and if you visit in autumn you'll be rewarded with a vista of shimmering golden aspens. ere are eight other ski areas in this beautiful state, and our next stop was Red River, an old mining town with buildings on the register of historic places. If you happened to visit Aspen 30 or 40 years ago when it was still a funky ski town, you'll have a sense of what Red River—popula- tion 475—is like now. For convenience, you can't beat the retro Auslander Condo- miniums located smack dab at the base. photo: Seth Bullington photo: Abigail Lewis february/march 2014 21 WLT-FEB-MAR-1-30.indd 21 1/30/14 1:10 AM