The Tasting Panel magazine

February 2014

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february 2014 / the tasting panel / 97 The bar is zinc-topped, with two pouring stations, left and right. Each has three types of ice (standard, crushed and BFIC—"big friggin' ice cubes") and commonly used spirits (there are no well spirits, as such). The syrups, garnishes, tinctures, infusion and bitters are in the center, on the top of the bar, behind the beer taps. The center area is meant to serve as a third station during rushes. Within easy reach are sherries, sakés, shochus and mezcals, considered ideal oyster pairings: The restaurant's raw bar is adjacent to the cocktail bar. "We wanted to show how food and cocktails work together," says Olson, who credits DeGroff with much of the design. "We wanted this to feel like you were having a dinner party in our home," says Olson. "We named it Apartment 13 for that reason." Every item on Keller's food menu has at least three suggested pairings, designated by icons: saké, beer, cocktails, wine. "Everything I do is about making the food taste better," says Olson, and create "a memorable dining experience. It's elevated food, but dressed down, to help make the place more warm, inviting, fun." Other lessons Olson applies include working with "genius" chefs; minimizing waste through cross-utilizing ingredients and centralizing paperwork; ("All the purchasing goes through one guy."); screening potential employees ("You can teach a person how to serve, bartend, cook, but you can't teach them to be nice.") and, lastly, the all-important irst step: "The irst mistake that many operators make is that they're so eager to get into a space they're not working with the proper people. The irst step is signing a good lease. All the other stuff doesn't matter if you're in a bad lease." The Vida Buena Cocktail Leo DeGroff and Steve Olson's take on a Negroni, starring mezcal. ◗ 1½ oz. Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal VIDA ◗ ¾ oz. Aperol ◗ ¾ oz. Carpano Antica ◗ 2 dashes Regan's Orange Bitters ◗ Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Stir well over large ice cubes. Strain into a double Old Fashioned glass over a single large ice cube (2x2). Garnish with a long orange peel. Lower East Side vibe: The entrance to Apartment 13 is deceptively unassuming.

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