Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/237615
and intensity of the New World, and the complexity and elegance of the Old World. While Mendocino producers continue to identify the top-performing sites for Malbec, the industry recognizes the need for a broader spectrum of wine styles and is stretching to develop sites in cooler regions. Most notable are Mendoza's Valley de Uco and the Neuquén and Rio Negro regions in Patagonia, which have been growing over the last 15 years. Rosberg points to promising Merlot, Pinot Noir and Malbec sites in the upper reaches of the verdant Rio Negro river valley that forms a unique microclimate in the Patagonian desert. 39th Parallel South At 39 degrees south latitude—just shy of 45 degrees, which is the southernmost limit for wine growing—Neuquén and neighboring Rio Negro to the east are cold and windy. So much so that Lombardy poplar trees are planted as wind breaks to protect the vines and orchards from the relentless Pamperio and Zonda winds. These conditions help keep vines healthy while sunny days and cold nights heighten complexity and acidity in the wines which show pronounced minerality. Winegrowing here was pioneered As part of a push to develop enotourism in the region, vintner Jose Manuel Ortega Gil-Fournier is selling one to three-hectare sites at his Santa Sofía Estate to private owners. Similar investment projects include The Vines of Mendoza, also in Uco Valley. A well-worn harvest token, given to grape pickers as a credit, provided the label inspiration for Humberto Canale's Denario Reserve Malbec. by agronomist Humberto Canale, who established the first winery in Rio Negro in 1909. Today, fourth-generation family member Juan Vidiri manages the estate. Canale was the first to plant Pinot Noir in the region and winemaker Horacio Bibiloni works with old-vine sites that lend complexity to his harmonious wines. Bibiloni credits the long hours of sunlight and the moderating influence of flood irrigation and wind breaks with offsetting the region's cold Continental climate. At nearby Noemía, established with sister winery Bodega Chacra in 1998 by winemaking consultant Hans VindingDiers and Italian countess Noemi Cinzano, winemaker German Masera farms old-vine Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot sites biodynamically and crafts field blends using hand destemming, foot-treading and natural yeast. "Yields are very low for these sites some of which are 80 years old," said Masera who makes three deeply extracted wines that undergo micro-oxygenation and benefit from several hours in the decanter. Prior to Noemía, Masera spent three years at Viña Cobos working with Paul Hobbs. Wine production in Neuquén was jumpstarted in 2001 when former real estate developer Julio Viola, partner in Bodega del Fin del Mundo and NQN wineries, which produce more than one million cases annually, built a 12-mile irrigation canal and planted vineyards. Fin del Mundo winemaker Ricardo Galante works with consultant Michel Rolland and collaborates with Sergio Pomar, who leads winemaking at NQN. Emphasis here is being placed on developing single-vineyard sites for reserve Pinot Noir, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Sauvignon Blanc–dominant blends from the 2013 vintage show some of the best expression the region has to offer. In 2002, the Schroeder family pur- chased land from Viola to build their winery and restaurant, Bodega Familia Schroeder, and in doing so discovered the remains of a Titanosaur, which are on display in a charming museum. Enotourism is top of mind for President Roberto Schroeder, who has plans for lodges that will turn what is now a day trip into a destination. The winery has been working with Hobbs since 2009 to A map of the Upper Rio Negro valley at Humberto Canale illustrates varieties and growing areas. improve wine quality and now makes seven Pinot Noirs, including Alto Limay, a private-label wine named for the Limay River that is being sold by Hobbs in the U.S. "Site selection is the trick to ripening Cabernet Sauvignon at Bodega Patritti," said winemaker Nicolas Navío who crafts blends that integrate these two varieties seamlessly. The estate's Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec vineyards were planted in 2003 by Ruben Patritti, and the wave-inspired winery was designed by consulting winemaker Mariano Di Paola. Patritti retains only the best lots from any vintage for its own production, preferring Cabernet Sauvignon with varietal character and ripe, medium tannins and lean, focused Malbec. Navío's affinity for cool-climate regions like Oregon should keep him moving in the right direction as the vines mature. Tasting notes for these producers and others researched for this article can be found at tastingpanelmag.com. january 2014 / the tasting panel / 89 TP0114_66-108.indd 89 12/19/13 9:48 PM