The Tasting Panel magazine

January 2014

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tions from the best winemakers. We have 348 selections on the wine list currently. A number of wineries have reached into their libraries for past vintages, Rodney Strong and Ferrari-Carano in particular. Fred: You certainly have plenty of high-end Cabernet from Napa. We are tasting today Opus One and Joseph Phelps Insignia. I was thinking steakhouse for sure. In Las Vegas terms, this is a heavyweight fight of legends. So who do you like in this tasting, side by side? Peter: These are legendary wines and delicious! But as I've learned here, the locals' view is that if you want to drink Napa, drive to Napa. But since you put me on the spot, I'm picking the Insignia. Fred: How would you describe 630 Park? Peter: Himalayan crystal chandeliers, the lastest Winetech storage units, all Prime steak and the finest seafood. Fred: I see these very expensive wines all around me. And they are beautifully stored and displayed. But are they "show" wines, or are they here to be sold? You've only been open a few days; is the clientele here? If you build it, will they come? Peter: Absolutely. From a mark-up perspective I didn't do what we do in Las Vegas. What I buy for Graton is definitely what I buy for Las Vegas. Look where we are—you can go down the street and buy some of the greatest wines of California. We're in Sonoma; Napa is just over the hill. We are going to have aggressive pricing so that our guests try these wines, not just look at them. I didn't use the company muscle on the Kosta Browns and Holdredges. They gave me what they could, and I am happy to have it. At the end of the day, it's about relationships. Fred: Fair enough. But this is Native American gaming and an indigenous tribal effort. Did they insist that you feature the wines of the area? Peter: This was definitely a collaborative effort, but I took the lead. I did ask them if there were certain wines they would enjoy featuring. All of our wines by the glass except for two are local. Fred: Come on, Peter. This is a high end steakhouse. What about the big ticket European wines? Peter: We have them, but our focus is on Sonoma. My mentor Larry O'Brien, MS loved to have an Adventurous Reds section and I'm carrying on his tradition. The only section I haven't filled is Chile and South Africa. I'm still working on those. Over the next three months, we'll determine what the price points and what our customers are willing to spend. Fred: What about the staff? Are they up to the task here with a new opening? Peter: We're going to learn a lot here in the next six months. We'll continue our work with the Court of Master Sommeliers as we move forward. Fred: Okay, to finish up, I always want to know what you would like to change about the world of wine. Peter: I'd really like people to be more interested in the wines rather than just the moment. Take to the time to learn about the region, the property, the winemaker. Then you can go out and really share the wines and the experiences with others. Peter Donkonics III: "Look where we are— you can go down the street and buy some of the greatest wines of California. We're in Sonoma; Napa is just over the hill." january 2014  /  the tasting panel  /  49 TP0114_034-65.indd 49 12/19/13 9:28 PM

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