Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/221505
PHOTO COURTESY OF TERLATO WINES Mazzoni is a new joint venture between Il Poggione and the Terlato family. More inventive enology is on display in how the soil and roots around the vines are worked and fertilized, especially right after harvest. Pellets of organic fertilizer are buried 40 centimeters below the surface with a subsoil tiller. The shallower roots are cut from the topsoil. "We want to facilitate the roots' ability to grow deeper into the ground instead of around the surface," says Bindocci. "We have always used natural by-products to fertilize, but the pellets make it easier, because you can get them deeper into the ground." A New Label: Authentic Tuscan Style PHOTO COURTESY OF TERLATO WINES Being true to one's roots is a maxim for many families and businesses. It therefore made sense that Il Poggione and Terlato Wines, who have partnered for more than three decades, would form a joint collaboration: Mazzoni. This line of wines combines Il Poggione's longtime expertise with Tuscan terroir with the Terlatos' historic association with Pinot Grigio, and their production of Merlot in California. "Our goal with Mazzoni is to be loyal to the authentic Tuscan style," says Bindocci. "Vermentino from Tuscany has beautiful mineral characteristics, but it can be lean. We decided to blend with unoaked Chardonnay—25 percent of the blend—because it adds structure without covering the minerality. And Mazzoni Pinot Grigio, being from a warmer area, adds something unique to the market: intense color, versatility to hold up with many foods. But the freshness remains intact." As both the Mazzoni and Il Poggione wines continue their journeys after the harvest, Bindocci stresses basic tenets, the things that winemakers—regardless of vintage or region—would be wise to remember. "You have to work the soil," he says, "and to be mindful of pruning and grape bunches. Really, you have to be a farmer more than anything." Tasting Notes DEPARTMENT HEADER On a recent visit to Chicago, winemaker Alessandro Bindocci tasted through wines from both Mazzoni and Il Poggione with Tom Caestecker Jr. –Ed. Mazzoni 2012 Vermentino-Chardonnay ($20) A blend of the traditional Tuscan white grape, Vermentino (75 percent), and internationally acclaimed Chardonnay (25 percent). Aromas are intense and rich, with a notable element of tropical fruit. The palate shows great balance, displaying ripe pear, lemon curd and a distinct savory note. There is great acidity for pairing with raw seafood, plus structure to pair with decadent sauces. Mazzoni 2012 Pinot Grigio ($20) Uniquely Tuscan Pinot Grigio, with intensity and complexity. In the glass, it is deep yellow in color. The aroma is a compelling blend of floral and melon notes. On the palate, it is bright, with fine minerality, but also a lovely note of white peach. Il Poggione 2011 Rosso di Montalcino ($27.99) Made with 100 percent Sangiovese from the youngest of the estate's vineyards. Aroma has a tremendous depth of both current and rose petals. Red fruit dominates the palate at the start, with a juicy buildup transitioning to a darker licorice note, and a long finish. Pair with dishes that have aromatic or tomato-based sauces, and with braised meats. Il Poggione 2008 Brunello di Montalcino ($84.99) The most celebrated of all Montalcino wines, the dark, brooding Brunello has a most elegant aroma of dark fruits and anise, with a distinct, toasted oak element. On the palate, this full-bodied luxuriant Sangiovese has both the balance of integrated tannins and a silky finish. Il Poggione 2007 Brunello Riserva ($114.99) The most revered of all Tenuta Il Poggione's wines, a Brunello exclusively from the "I Paganelli" vineyeard, the oldest on the estate. Featuring small-case production in only the best vintages, the aroma is vibrant, and full of black cherries, some clove, and a whisper of smoke. Supple black fruit, perfectly balanced acidity and a savory aspect linger enticingly on the palate. A star for the cellar. On a recent visit to the estate, Timothy Moriatry had an opportunity to taste unreleased vintages of Il Poggione Brunello in barrel. —Ed. Il Poggione 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Assertive nose of plum fruit, spice. Fruit and spice reinforced on the palate. Tannins and characteristic acidity—structured to age. Il Poggione 2010 Brunello di Montalcino A classic vintage, according to winemakers, and it shows: Tannins and acids frame strong plum and dark fruit flavors. Beautiful balance. Il Poggione 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Faint fruit notes on nose. Palate showing complexity, characteristic fruit, elegance. Persistent, pleasurable finish. Tannins promise long aging. Will be light on its feet at peak. december 2013 / the tasting panel / 83 TP1213_064-103.indd 83 11/23/13 8:35 PM