The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2013

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Page 76 of 152

RESTAURANTS THAT MATTER Queen City CINCINNATI CHILI MOVE OVER—HERE COMES FARM-TOTABLE COOKING Cuisine by Merrill Shindler PHOTO: ANTHONY TAHLIER L Owners Lana and Daniel Wright at Abigail Street. et us speak then of Cincinnati Chili, an estimated two million pounds of which are devoured each year by the hungry citizens of The Queen City—topped, I hear, with 850,000 pounds of cheddar cheese. It is unlike any chili served anywhere else. It is flavored, variously, with cinnamon, cloves, allspice and chocolate. It is usually served over spaghetti. Unlike most chilies, it has a thin, sauce-like texture. It's found at chili parlors with names like Skyline Chili and Gold Star Chili. Order a Five-Way, and what you get is chili, spaghetti, cheese, onions and beans. It's a heck of a meal. But it is not the only meal to be had in Cincy. Indeed, there is so much more. And so much of it is . . . downhome and downright friendly. Consider the Senate Pub, for instance, which describes itself as a "Pusher of Beer, Wine and Gourmet Street Food." Chef-owner Daniel Wright's sprawling, open-fronted eatery has a long bar and a "street food" menu that includes duck fat french fries, bone marrow with cranberry jam, crispy BBQ pig's tails—and lots and lots of extreme hot dogs. (One is called the Lindsay Lohan. Another is the Hello Kitty 2.0. On what street is this street food?) Abigail Street (which isn't actually on Abigail Street), describes itself as "Cincinnati's Original Wine Bar"—and as "Pushers of Fermented Grape Juice." PHOTO: ANTHONY TAHLIER Bone marrow with cranberry jam at Senate Pub. 76  /  the tasting panel  /  december 2013 TP1213_064-103.indd 76 11/23/13 8:34 PM

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