Whole Life Magazine

December 2013/January 2014

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EXPLORING BY LAND AND SEA So what can you do on the islands? If you're staying on a boat, you'll have two or three chances each day to hike, swim or snorkel. Our hikes were short and slow, no more than a couple of miles. Every ten yards we stopped to snap a zillion photos or to listen to our naturalists talk about things like the mating habits of giant tortoises or the desalination gland of marine iguanas. Animals in the Galapagos are strangely apathetic about humans, perhaps never having learned fear. Sea lions sprawl in your path. Hawks stare impassively as you walk within ten feet of them. Birders will enjoy the chance to see blue-footed boobies waving their azure feet in a courtship dance, or male frigate birds puffing up their red chests like balloons to attract mates. All of this is heaven for those interested in wildlife, but don't expect to get much exercise. The snorkeling is astonishing. Schools of surgeonfish and parrotfish swim by close enough to touch. Toward the sea floor you'll see marble rays and white-tipped reef sharks. And if you lift your face from the water, you might see a pelican skimming a wave or a Galapagos penguin on a rocky outcropping. GREEN LIGHT CRUISE Those prone to seasickness (don't feel bad, Darwin himself never got his sea legs) might prefer a land-based Galapagos trip. Otherwise, staying aboard a floating hotel, as they're sometimes called, has many advantages, plus they tend to navigate at night, meaning you'll wake up already positioned for your next hike or swim. The vast majority of licensed passenger ships in this area carry 20 or fewer passengers. I spent a week on a 20-passenger boat owned by the Ecuadorian company Ecoventura. A high crew-to-passenger ratio ensured we were well cared for, and for the three vegan or vegetarians on board, the kitchen crew continually prepared special entrees and snacks. (Rumor has it that non-carnivores have a tough time on land.) The cruise line also regularly caters to those on diabetic- or gluten-free diets. Ecoventura maintains its environmental certification with Smart Voyager, a founding member of the Sustainable Tourism Certification Network of the Americas—a UNESCO-recognized South American program that monitors the environmental and social impacts of companies and ensures direct benefits to local populations. Our boat's high-performance oil filters reduce fuel consumption, and the company provides local children with scholarships to study conservation. Guests participate by washing with only the biodegradable soap and shampoo supplied onboard, reusing towels, and depositing used toilet paper in a wastebasket, rather than flushing. Boats operate under strict park rules regarding times, itineraries and behavior. When on terra firma, visitors must stay on paths, refrain from pocketing shells and submit to having sea lion poop hosed off their feet before reboarding the ship. To get the most out of a trip like this, passengers should be decent swimmers who can walk unassisted for several hours. The equatorial sun means business. Bring a good hat and twice as much sunscreen as you think you'll possibly need. These items are expensive or unavailable even in the inhabited parts of the Galapagos. And on those pristine islands, you'll look out on a vista of white sand beach, black lava, lazy sea lions and soaring gulls. Not a hat vendor in sight. december/january 2013 -'14 WLT-DEC-JAN-11-24-10pm.indd 29 29 11/24/13 10:34 PM

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