Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1787
I n San Diego's East Village, hipsters in the know are sidling up to the saddle-like barstools at Cowboy Star, where they are greeted by contemporary American cuisine with a Western flare and a bar program that's equal parts classic chic and modern innova- tion. With inspired dishes like buttermilk- fried sweetbreads and a rabbit duo, Chef Victor Jiminez's protein-heavy menu has won over Southern Californians—but whatever you do, don't call Cowboy Star a steakhouse. "We're not really a steakhouse," explains Jiminez. "We do feature a lot of meat, but we're so much more." Jiminez isn't kidding; in addition to boasting an attached butcher shop, Cowboy Star is in the process of be- coming the first Certified Humane restaurant in Southern California, and has implemented stringent policies regarding the quality and farming practices of all meats and fish of- fered on the menu. But in the competitive Southern California dining market, offering an outstanding and unique menu is only half the battle; that's where Wine Buyer Garth Flood has stepped in, ensuring that the restaurant's wine and cocktail program can keep pace with the food. "We've taken that contemporary American theme and applied it to the wine list as well," explains Flood, who selected a few pairings exclusively for THE TASTING PANEL (see sidebar). "We don't have French wines here beyond champagne, and we don't have Italian wines. What we've done here is looked for American expressions of the same varietal." Flood's all-American focus has extended to the cocktail program as well, where a brown- spirits revival has helped put Cowboy Star on the map. "If you can pair brown spirits on your cocktail menu with the food served, you can really set yourself apart from other restaurants," says Flood. With unique and innovative food, wines and spirits, there's no doubt that this eatery does more than shine; it's a star. On-Premise Patter Saddle Up! San Diego's rising Cowboy Star has all-American food . . . and drinks to match by Rachel Burkons / photos by Elaine Chen-Fernandez Kris Williams of Constellation Wines U.S. enjoys the Western atmosphere (and the wines!) served up by Cowboy Star's Garth Flood. Garth Flood pairs Cowboy Star's sustainably-farmed halibut with the Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, and the bone-in ribeye with the Franciscan 2005 Magnificat. Fish: Flood recommends the halibut, served with grilled arti- chokes, soy beans, watercress and mustard beurre blanc, with the Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc. Steak: Flood loves the fatty flavor of the 14-ounce bone-in ribeye with the dry profile of the Franciscan 2005 Magnificat. Garth Flood, Wine Buyer at Cowboy Star, offered THE TASTING PANEL these exclusive pairings: 68 / the tasting panel / august 2009